Restaurant Vincents, Riga, take 2 - can the second time ever live up to the first one?

For a while now I've been thinking about not publishing this post as I honestly still don't know what to make of the evening. But here it is - our experience in what was supposed to be the highlight of our girly getaway in Riga. Entries in cursive are written by the date. 

Dinner at Vincents was the absolute highlight of my trip to Riga last spring. I left the restaurant practically moved to tears, in such bubble of happiness my feet barely touched the ground. The story made it to the the blog dubbed "the best dinner of my life". 

Exactly a year later I made my way back for round 2. Did it live up to the (admittedly) high expectations? Or were they exceeded? Was this time, too, en  euphoria-inducing culinary masterpiece that catered to all the senses, making the evening utter Bliss with capital B? No.

Tasting menu itself costs €90, while the matching wines set you back €55. So far so (reasonably) good. The extras, however (Champagne to start with, bread basket, 2 bottles of water and coffees) added another €60 euros to the tally so that the total came to over €170 per head. 

You've gotta love fine dining.

Recipes mastered over time, unparallelled talent and love of good food can be tasted in each bite. Add to that professional waiting staff and carefully matched wines by the sommelier and you're standing at the gates of Heaven with a choir of hundred cherubs singing in the background.

That's what we came here for. 

Just like last time, we were greeted by the edible twigs.

Vincents is, without a doubt, a restaurant with cosy atmosphere. The staff is clad in head-to-toe black, reminiscent of 1960's beatnik joint. Sans the sun glasses and air, thick with cigarette smoke. Luckily. Minimalist and stylish. Points for that. 

Unfortunately the interaction with us somewhat automated, bordering on robot-like, which inevitably affected our vibe, too. One doesn't often stop to think what a huge part waiting staff plays in in the mix. The service did get better towards the end, so there were moments to smile about, too. 

And the food and drink? Well, there were both. 

The kitchen was clearly aware of the menu we had the last time, as our amouse bouche differed from that served to most of the other tables. They were served that giant hale that charmed the socks off us the last time around. But the wow factor of the first time was replaced by the lackluster way the schpiel was so clearly memorized and recited word by word. Also, this time the dish was not presented by the venerable Martins Ritins himself, but by a member of the waiting staff. 

Ours had some serious wow effect too, mind. And vendace roe, crème fraîche and maple syrup.

The evening started with Champagne served with kitchen's greeting called ”Vincents cornucopia ” which consisted of vendace roes and something salmony (salmon?) served in a cone with crème fraïche and maple syrup.

What a treat that was. I got a bit giddy indeed.

At this point we witnessed the table next to ours being served the spiel of tartar in a tin produced out of a crumpled brown paper bag... exactly like last year.

Our next amouse bouche, however was Oyster Rockefeller, lit up and cooked before our enchanted eyes. For video, please see blog's  Twitter-feed. 

Kitchen was feeling generous today, as the next thing we got was an oyster. IT was served in a scallop shell with parsley, bread crumbs and velouté. This also marked the beginning of Vincents Show: the shell was resting on a pile of salt and the whole concoction was lit in flames right in front of of us at the table. Impressive - you couldn't help but be in awe.

First oyster I've ever had, you know. Glad I got to eat it cooked. It tasted of ocean, alright, but not necessarily my thing.

It probably wasn't the last oyster of my life, but one of the few, anyway. The bread crumbs and the sauce were delish.

Then it was off to the actual menu. First wine poured was Italian white so we assumed we'd be served the delicate looking salmon dish we saw being ferried off to the tables around us. 

But instead a cart with jar of winter truffles was wheeled to our table...

... and freshly shaved truffle was sprinkled on top of our roll of Galician Blond Cattle carpaccio. The carpaccio was carried to the table practically frozen and though it was heated on the inside with a torch, the serving temperature of the dish was so cold, you couldn't really taste any of the flavours. Not the truffle or the foie gras shavings. 

The wine pairing seemed so off we couldn't help but wonder if it was in fact meant for the salmon. Something we just couldn't shake off. 

Then it was time to tackle the dinner itself. The wine suggested something fattier, but either the wine pairing was off or the food was: carpaccio with foie gras shavings and truffle was everything but a good match. 

The dish wasn't saved even by the torch that was used to shoot flames through the carpaccio roll. I mean, it was frozen. Even this  culinary amateur was puzzled. Not going to Hollywood, this dish!

Bread and butter selection were good (just like last time, these, too...) The note we found in the bread basket turned out to the be one of the biggest surprises of the evening. The note detailed the story of the butter and most importantly, the yeast used for the bread they call holy. It's 27-year-old natural yeast brought over from Tishbi Winery I visited only a couple of months ago! 

Next up was langoustine and snow crab tortellini served with langoustine bisque. The dish, containing some seaweed, too, was declared by the date as the best dish she'd had all trip. It was excellent and the bisque had lovely depth of flavour and gorgeous heat from the spices.

It would have been nice if we'd also been served a little bowl for discarding the langoustine claws' remains without having to specifically ask for one. 

But at this point those hundred cherubs settled on my shoulder and started their symphony. Crab tortellinis in a this crayfish sauce (or soup? Well, bisque, anyway) was pure foodie heaven. To a point that I was ready to propose to the dish. Which I actually did, too. I'm still not quite sure of our marital status, but I'm still dreaming of this dish. And that wine will most definitely be invited to the wedding, too. 

One of the best dishes I've ever eaten in my life. 

Wine pairing was spot on.

We continued with seafood (yes, please!) next stop was hand dived Norwegian scallops with cauliflower puree and velouté with crispy pancetta shavings. At this point a spoon would have come in handy to make the most of that velouté. 

The dinner continued with fines the seas have to offer: Norwegian hand dived scallops were served with cauliflower mash and sauce. Dish was good, though no cherubs were singing during this course. Scallop has such a delicate flavour, that the cauliflower sadly overpowered it. 

Loimer's Grüner Veltliner is one of my old favourites and worked its magic this time, too. 

At this point a cart surrounded by mysterious cloud was wheeled to the table and sure enough, (just like last time) it was time for the palate cleanser: a bergamot sorbet lollipop dusted with matcha powder. For a video of this, too, see Twitter. 

Next we were brought a cart with a smoking pot on top of it. In that pan were made a palate cleanser using liquid nitrogen out of bergamot and pineapple sorbet, 

The operation wasn't quite the success it could have been and one of the lollipops refused to stay together. He got there in the end and we both got to sample the lolly, which was refreshing and got us ready for the next treat.

The main course was roasted goose. In addition to the goose itself, there was a sauce made using red wine and pressed remains of the duck (giblets and such). The absolute star of the evening and beautifully complimented by the accompanying Pinot Noir.

Here's my ode to the goose. Goose, both in confit and roasted was to die for. Yes, cherubs turned up, too. The red wine sauce was a feast for mouth as much as it was to the sould. Definitely the second best dish of the dinner. 

Meat was tender and the accoutrements were full of surprises yet worked in perfect harmony.

Oh and the wine? Ah, the wine. 

Before the dessert all the other tables were served a pre-dessert. Every other table but ours. Why that is, we still don't know. Was our dessert wine somehow exceptionally exceptional that maybe others were not served? That was deemed to make up for it? We still don't know. Should we even have to ponder this kind of things? Again, we don't know. 

The wine was crazy good, though. Crayzeeeeee. 

Another thing we found puzzling was the way staff insisted we take their car. Having other plans, we turned it down for the first 3 times but as the fourth staff member insisted we let the driver drive us where ever we needed to get to, we gave in.

The whispering sommelier approached our table and with him, a bottle of French dessert wine you can only by a container load (?) at a time. Apparently it's only served for the very best customers. And good it was. So very, unbelievably good.

The only damper on the things was the pre-dessert we for some reason were not served. Maybe we were the only ones who got served this wine rarity? But still, everybody else got that funky looking white marshmallowy lollipop that was then torched to its final serving glory. It looked like so much fun. I was disappointed. As were the cherubs. 

The dessert was a feast of innovation, aesthetics, flavours and textures: a combination of refreshing kaffir lime, cookie crumbs and gel-like jelly and berry sorbet.

The dessert was the Paradise apple. The dish looked like a study of a lonely apple in the woods. The soil was made using Vincents' chocolate, featuring (among other things )honeycomb biscuits. The apple itself was something wonderful in gel form containing something wonderful that was white. Some cherubs turned up for this one, too, though just a few. 

As we were asked about coffee, we both ordered espressos. For some reason they were served before the dessert (which came with its own wine anyway) and far too early as far as the chocolates were concerned. By the time chocolates turned up, the coffee was long gone. 

With the meal we also had some bread that came from Israel. There were three different types of butter, all made at the premises (of course). Coffee was brought before the dessert and chocolates which was weird. Then we were practically forced to accept their driver to take us back to the hotel. That was a bit weird, too. 

The total came to about 173 euros. 

That is (especially in a country like Latvia) a lot of money, so when you're shelling that kind of money on dining out, you expect everything to work smoothly. I for one want the staff to create a contact with me from the start.

To err is human, but you shouldn't have to pay 173 euros for them. I personally think two especially stood out: carpaccio and wine and the sorbet gate. And three, if you're counting the missing pre-dessert. 

Water for 2 people alone added 11 euros on to the bill. €11! For water! I sure expect it was squeezed out of a rock by a bunch of virgins as that's the only way it can be excused. 

Service was good. Water glasses were continuously topped up. A napkin fallen on the floor was replaced in seconds. Dishes turned up and empty plates removed without a glitch. Just about everything was timed well, too.

Upon departure were given small boxes to go. We thought they might be chocolates, but they weren't. They were organic biscuits. With Parmesan. So cheesy and so bloody good. 

Was the dinner worth every penny? No. Would I go again? Yes. But with my own money? I'd rather not.

The contrast to the euphoria that enveloped me after the last time was tangible. We were both quiet and a bit confused. What just happened? Why aren't we feeling more.... well, elated? 

Vincent's is, without a doubt, still the best restaurant in the country and as far as technical excellence goes, firmly in a league of its own. This time, however, didn't have a patch on the last time. Was it us? Or was it the restaurant? Have I eaten so well over the past year it would take something truly extra ordinary to impress me? I seriously doubt that.

Though the food was (for the large part) without a flaw, in order to be a success a dinner in a place like this requires all the other parts to come together in a similarly seamless fashion (converted into Finnish prices we are talking almost €1000 a head, after all) and the innovation, wow factors and elements of surprise (as opposed to, all that thing, again) are integral parts of that. As is the floor staff. 

One can't also forget the fact that people like me travel to these restaurants for the chefs, the true rock stars of our lives. So, it's only natural that actually meeting them takes the whole experience to a whole new level.

Would I go for third time? I'm sure I would. But with my own money? I doubt it.

For the full story of the first time, just see here.

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Foodie's Riga - where to go, where to eat

Good food is something Riga has in abundance. Luckily I was travelling with an equally shameless hedonist, who genuinely believed 3 desserts is only reasonable. Though I did hear (with all due respect and love, I'm sure?) I can be quite a foodzilla...

Our biggest favourite this trip was Muusu, currently ranked #3 in Riga's top 30 restaurants. 

Located in the Old Town Muusu won us over with its fairytale-like surroundings, but everything about this place works. Lovely atmosphere, excellent customer service, knowledgeable wine recommendations and really good food.

Their starters are their strong suite. They're a celebration of Latvian culinary traditions and European twist. Both game and slightly more exotic cuts are prominently displayed  - you should absolutely try the beautifully deep flavours of lamb tongue and pig ear terrine.

Our feast consisted of glasses of Champagne, 4 starters, a main we shared, 3 desserts, a bottle of wine and a couple of digestives. Even with tip the total only came to about €130. Well worth it.

In case it's Mediterranean feast you're after, head over to Riviera, on the other side of the city. The list features oysters, octopus (!!!) and frog legs. Despite the quality the prices are reasonable: even the mains are priced below €20. 

Great wine list and user friendly, too: several are available by the glass and the extensive Champagne list still makes me sigh.

Wine lovers should check out the latest arrival in the wine bar scene: Easy Wine. The concept is familiar from Tasting Room at Tel Aviv's Sarona Market and as the name suggests, it's a low treshold, casual and fun way to get to know wines. 

As you walk in, you get a card that's been charged with €50. You insert the card into the machine and choose your wine and preferred portion (which start at 5 cl) out of the more that 60 available varieties. Simples! And oh, so much fun. 

They also have a very reasonably priced menu featuring antipasti, salads, bruschettas and pastas. 

Another wine bar worth recommending is Garage near Vincents. Interesting, hand-picked wines and and oyster brunch available during weekends. 3 oysters with the trimmings with a glass of either Prosecco, Franciaforta or Champagne costs €9/ €12/ €15

When looking for a brunch venue in Riga, you can't beat Biblioteka (oyster, here too!) but you might also want to check out Restorans 3, the latest venture by the chefs behind 3Pavaru. The philosophy is literally down to Earth, but then, so are the prices (weekend brunch €12,50 for grown ups, €5 for children).

Riga is a city of gingerbread-like charm, so you can't be blamed for getting a sudden craving for something sweet. For that, make your way to Audeju Iela street, home to Bake Berry and their amazing pastries (have the lemon tartalette!)

Nelleulla is a fantastic artisan chocolatier located on the same street and definitely worth a visit, too (basil and mango truffles, anyone?)

For more tips on making the most of foodie Riga, see the lowdown on our previous trip over here.

Next I'd quite like to sample the delights of Latvia's neighbour - I've ben hearing Vilnius is quite a culinary gem, too. Anybody been there and have tips and recommendations to share?

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Spa virgins take to the nudity for a little roll in the clay

Let's just get it out of the way straight away: I'm not much of a girl. I've never had a manicure for one (let alone a pedicure). I only have my hair done professionally because that allows me to indulge my love of those tacky celeb magazines (the vulgarity of which I officially claim to hate). A couple of weeks ago I was on a wonderful date with a wonderful guy... at a football match.

So it doesn't come as much of a surprise that I'm not really into spas either. I did try in Tunisia, but lying naked on the therapy table at the hammam, being poked and prodded by a total stranger (who'd not even taken me out on three dates...) just made me feel awkward. Perhaps I'm just too Finnish for my own good?

During our girly getaway in Riga we decided to go all out and spoil ourselves rotten and so I booked us into the spa at our hotel, Opera Hotel and Spa for Rasul treatment, which, the leaflet promised, is a "traditional Arab cleansing ritual which leaves one feeling pure and calm, skin beautifully exfoliated."

The treatment was recommended as a "great way to spend quality time with your partner".... or a "close friend." In hindsight I probably should have stopped right there for a moment: quality time with one's partner in that romantic sense does, after all, tend to involve drastically different things from quality time with one's friend, no matter how close you are. Unless, of course, we're talking about the kind of "close friends" Rock Hudson had?

Robes flowing we slipped down to the spa and were escorted to the changing rooms, after which we were taken to a preparatory, mid-temperature steam room to warm up. Oh, and relax. Which we all know is something that happens when you're told to do it. 

Then we were moved to the treatment room, where we were greeted by bowls of different coloured clay and his n' hers disposable underwear. Strings for one and , well, a banana hammock for the other. After exchanging some uncomfortable looks with the Cat Blogger it started to dawn on me that we really might not be close enough for what was to come. 

The next step was to scrub the clay all over each others' naked bodies. At this point we unanimously agreed our friendship could do just well without any additional sensual components. 

We entered the cramped 42°  steam chamber where were positioned on stone seats facing each other and instructed to continue rubbing the clay on ourselves as the heat steadily went up. Oh, and relax, of course. 

The 20 minutes that followed were the longest of our lives. No matter how close friends you are with each other, it's surprisingly difficult to carry on a normal conversation while naked, staring at each other fondling yourselves in strangely bulging paper thongs, sweating profusely and having streams of clay running into your eyes. Anything but relaxing, I can tell you. 

After 20 minutes in the chamber, the showers in the ceiling went off (Hmmm. Is anyone who just read that sentence still thinking of a spa? ) and it was time to rinse off the clay. Persistent stuff. The mess we left behind was... well, that's one detail I'm sure we can all do without.

After the treatment it is advisable to rest (and relax some more) and drink plenty of fluids for 20 minutes in the relaxation rooms. At this point we started to get back to normal (as we were planning on what to eat that night) and yes, even some relaxation was noticeable. 

Sure enough, after the treatment our skins did feel dreamily smooth. Perhaps all that spa-ing really has a point? And learning to set some time aside for relaxation is something we all could benefit from? Maybe that's something I could take home with me and make part of my own routine? So that I wouldn't put on my weekly face mask while doing the dishes with one hand and writing, editing and replying to e-mails with the other? 

Instead I could switch off the phone, wrap myself into one of those gloriously luxurious thick robes (note to self: buy a robe), light some scented candles (note to self: buy candles)  and create a relaxation-inducing atmosphere by playing that New Age ambient jazz mixed with whale singing (note to self: buy whale singing) and set one hour each week aside, just for myself?

That can only be a great idea, right? So why is it so difficult to remember taking care of oneself?

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Rasul treatment at  Opera Hotel and Spa 26€ /pp/ 40 min treatment

At Baltic Beach Hotel & Spa it's included in the services provided by the Gardenia

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St.Peter's Church - best views over Riga

Weather in early March does not spoil those exploring the windy streets of Old Riga - at times you need both your hands to wrap your coat tighter around you.

On a Sunday afternoon the street are eerily deserted. All of a sudden there's a wistful echo of a lonely cello. An old man, huddled in the corner of Riga Dome Cathedral's courtyard is playing a melody that stops me on my tracks: Finlandia hymn, an ode to my country and the struggle it had to go through in order to gain and maintain her independence against the Soviet.

All of a sudden I feel warm and proud. I wonder if he knows the lyrics? How do they make him feel? Then the patriotism gives way to sadness and solidarity. How differently things would have turned out for this nation, had they, too,  succeeded in their struggle against that same enemy...

Where ever you turn, you only seem to run into one of the many churches in Old Town. And there are many: Catholic, Orthodox, Lutheran and Reform.

Their spires are a permanent fixture of skyline where ever you look.

The oldest churches, located on the bank of river Daugava form an interesting exception: instead of cross, their towers sport a rooster.

There are several explanations for this. According to pagan tradition roosters ward off evil spirits, whereas the more Christian interpretation explains roosters symbolize watchfulness and vigilance before the Lord.

For best, 360-degree panoramic views over the rooftops of Riga, you should head over to St. Peter's Church (for blog's walking tour on these picturesque streets, see here).

Built in early 13th century its architecture represents Gothic, Roman and Baroque features. The tower of this Lutheran church is the highest in Old Town. In 1997 it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Admission to the top is €9. Luckily these days there's a lift in the third floor that saves you from a very steep and painful climb to the top (anybody remember Seville?)

It's windy at the top and with only a narrow corridor circling the tower you need to be prepared to fight for the best spots with Russian tourists waving their selfie sticks and the Asians armed with their state of the art Canons. But the views are spectacular.

I immediately spotted several monuments familiar from the last trip. 

That one in the middle is the Freedom monument, which I was told was so heavily guarded during the Soviet Era you couldn't even dream of approaching it. Even loitering in the vicinity for too long was considered so suspicious it could warrant you an interrogation (for more on KGB's head quarters in Riga which still today leaves a visitor silent with disbelief, please see here).

And hey - there are the zeppelins of the Central Market! (For a full tour of this glorious place, just click here).

And behind the market, there's that great love of mine: Stalin's Birthday Cake. Every bit as gorgeous as it was the first time around. 

Behind that, you can see the Old Jewish Ghetto, which I couldn't skip this time either. 

For a video footage from the top, just check my Twitter feed.

But no, Riga still had some surprises in store for us. As we exited the church, we were hijacked to play a part in a Dutch role playing game, in which we had to re-enact Rembrandt's Night Watch.

As a souvenir I was awarded the plastic machine gun I'd been given as part of my role. Just imagine the reactions the butt, sticking out of my hand bag for the rest of the day evoked in people...

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SHARING IS CARING!