Lahmacun - Turkish pizza (kosher, gluten-free)

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Lahmacun is Turkish pizza and transports taste buds instantly to Istanbul. Ahhhh!

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Let's say it out loud: Turkey is quite a shit country. No, no point arguing: it is. 

Just think about it: no-one other than Erdogan could possibly think that persecution of the Kurds, rampant violence towards women and honour killings somehow make up for the obvious deficiencies in the society such as lack of viable democracy and absence of human rights. Though, genocide-deniers such as him rarely make the merriest of the bunch. 

Incredible Istanbul, however, has for long been one of my favourite cities in the world. 

But the warmest memories I have of my Tour of Turkey some years back are, without a doubt, food-related (hardly surprising, eh?). One of my biggest favourites were lahmacuns, bought from a stall for a mere euro on one of the narrow alleyways surrounding The Grand Bazaar

No wonder I fell for it- it is, after all, member of the pizza family; the corner stone of my diet.

The dish combines meat (lahm) and dough (ajin) and is, depending on the region, also known as either Turkish or Armenian pizza. And unlike Turkish policies, this one is an easy one to fall in love with. 

Since discovering it, I've never missed a chance to get re-acquainted. If a trip to Turkey doesn't tempt you, you'll find good ones in London as well.

Both the base and the topping layer are thin - the crust does not need to be puffy as in a pizza and the toppings should not overflow either. 

Instead of lamb you could also use minced beef and, if in a hurry, you could substitute the base with soft wheat tortillas or flat breads, too. 

You could also bake the dough into mini-sized lahmacuns - perfect for parties and picnics. In that case the recipe yields 24-28 lahmacuns. 

Traditionally lahmacun is served with lemon wedges, fresh herbs and simple tomato and cucumber salad (such as my Israeli salad!).

Makes six

Lahmacun - Turkish pizza:

Base:

3 3/4 tsp dry yeast

2 1/4 tsp sugar

2 1/4 dl warm water

2 1/4 tbsp oil

5-6 dl flour (00- grade if possible, gluten-free if needed)

3/4 tsp salt

Topping:

400 g ground lamb (or beef) 
1 (large)onion
2 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 large (beefsteak) tomato or 2 smaller ones
1 large green pepper
1 1/2 dl finely chopped parsley
3/4 dl finely chopped mint
2 tbsp tomato concentrate
3/4 tsp ground cumin
3/4 tsp ground coriander
3/4 tsp paprika
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
3/4 tsp salt
3/4 tsp black pepper

also: red chilli flakes

to serve: remaining herbs, lemon wedges

Combine dry yeast, water and sugar and leave aside, covered for 5 minutes while the yeast activates. 

Then add oil, flour (and along with the last dl of flour) salt. Knead into a smooth dough. Brush with a little oil, cover with cling film and leave to double in size in a warm place for an hour. In the meanwhile prep the topping.

Pre-heat the oven to 250ºc  at this point, too, (in a fan assisted oven 230 should do). If you have a pizza stone, leave in in the oven. If not, then do the same with the tray.

Finely chop/ frate the onion. You can do this in a food processor, too, but in that case drain most of the liquid.

Cut the tomato in half, remove the hard core and chop very finely. Do the same with pepper, too. 

Combine all the ingredients (except for the chilli flakes) and work into a smooth mixture. Chill in the fridge until the dough is ready. 

Turn the dough out onto work surface, knead and divide into 6 (there shouldn't be any need for more flour) and roll into thin discs. It's easiest to do this on a parchment, which in turn makes it easy to flip them over onto the hot tray. 

Spoon a couple of tablespoons of the topping onto the base and pat into a smooth, even layer. Sprinkle chilli flakes on top and bake for 7-8 minutes until the meat is done and the edges start to get soe colour. 

In case you want your lahmacuns to stay soft, cover them with parchment and then top with a tea towel.

Serve with the remaining herbs and drizzle with lemon juice. 

PS. in case lahmacun is up your alley, you shouldn't forget another Turkish take on pizza: pide!

Onko teillä ollut jo mahdollisuus maistaa lahmacunia? Veikö se teidänkin sydämenne?

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T(r)ips around the world - London's best ethnic restaurants

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For a culinary crusader London's ethnic restaurants are a treasure trove. Here are my favourites!

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London is one of my old stomping grounds and a place that will forever have a special place in my heart. 

Though, while a city of endless possibilities (especially on a Saudi gazillionaire's budget), England is not exactly a place where people travel for foodie feasts. Unless, of course, you're a culinary crusader like me and travel everywhere in search of food.

Its long colonial imperial history and substantial immigrant population make it, however, a brilliant destination for foodie travels around the world. 

While some of them do offer Michelin-standard fine dining, London's ethnic restaurants tend to be both authentic and surprisingly affordable. 

London's Brick Lane - curry lover's paradise

Many immigrant communities have settled in certain parts of London, which often translates to a hub of restaurants of particular ethnic origin.

One of the most famous ones is Brick Lane in East London, populated by South Asians (closest tube stations Aldgate East or Liverpool Street). 

The portion sizes are often so generous that one dish feeds two. Do note though that all the pappadums and other extras they so eagerly bring over tend to cost extra.

While every single one of them proudly advertizes themselves as the purveyors of the best curry in the city, the quality is rather, well, varied. One steady (though slightly pricier) favourite is  Dishoom (with 4 different branches).

Beigel Bake - piece of New York in London

Brick Lane is also home to Beigel Bake, a delightful piece of Jewish New York. A popular place, so be prepared queue (and be elbowed by your fellow diners and yes, occasionally shouted at by the staff). Luckily this local institution is open 24/7.

Perfectly chewy bagels yet surprisingly cheap (salmon and cream cheese for instance is your for mere £1.60!). Do go for the salted beef. Do.

Oy,vey - London's Jewish soul food classics

If you fancy an in-depth expedition into the heart of Jewish cuisine, head over to North London's Golder's Green, popular among the Jews.

In Central London you'll get some of that feeling at Monty's Deli.

Best Turkish food in London

If you crave Turkish food, your best bet is North London and Harringay Green Lanes region (stations: Manor House or Turnpike Lane).

In case you're not up for the travel,  don't you worry: Islington's Antepliler (tube: Angel) is the home of best pides and lahmacuns this side of Bosphorus. 

What ever you order, make sure you'll leave some room for their baclavas.

Middle Eastern food in the middle of London

If, like me, you love Middle Eastern food, you're in for some serious treats. Lebanese Yalla Yalla is good and affordable place for meze overload. 

Try lahmacun's Lebanese cousin arayes and chicken liver with pomegranate sauce.

My old home, Edgware Road is full of Lebanese restaurants too and another easy destination because of its central location. Al Arez for instance is a familiar, good no-frills place.

A brilliant place for sampling the flavours of Eastern Mediterranean is Bib Gourmand-awarded Palomar, located near Leicester Square (reservation recommended, though bar also accommodates walk-ins). 

It's hardly surprising I love them as much as I do - their sister restaurant MachneYuda in Jerusalem is one of my favourite restaurants in the whole of Israel. 

Ah, how about some Afghan food?

If you're in the mood for something a little bit more exotic, you should try Afghan cooking, such as Ariana in Kilburn (bus no 16).

Namesake to its Manhattan-based sister restaurant this establishment does not serve any alcohol, but operates a BYOB policy (no, that's not "Bring Your Own Bomb squad"). 

And what to have here? Aushaks, meat or vegetable-filled dumplings.

London's Chinatown - dim sum and then some

London't Chinatown settled in its current location in Soho back in 1970's and has become a popular tourist sight - during Chinese New Year celebrations you can't even breathe here.

My recommendation is to skip the main street Gerrard Street and head over to adjacent Lisle Street's dim sum heaven. Dim sums are usually served daily until 5pm. My favourite is Young Cheng (popular among actual Chinese people, too) where you might have to queue, especially around lunch time. 

Extensive selection (anyone for some marinated duck tongue?). All the dishes €4 or under, so even a lunch for 2 (with beers) will set you back less than €40.

In London's Japanese restaurants ramen reigns supreme

Japanese restaurants aren't gathered in any particular area, but owing to massive popularity of ramen they keep popping up everywhere.

Some places cook their stock for 3 days, some compete with the elaborate process of making their own noodles, so there's something for everyone. One tiny and extremely popular place worth recommending is Kanada-Ya.

Nobu is a world famous gourmet restaurant where, after the hype of initial years, its possible to get a reservation rather easily.

Another place for those in the market for a bit more contemporary take on things is Roka. 

The Aldwych-based restaurant is located smack in the middle of London's Theatreland, which means that early in the evening they serve affordably priced pre theatre-menus.

African food in London

The african restaurants in London tend to specialize in the delights of Northern and Eastern Africa. If you like Ethiopian food, give Eritrean a go, too. 

A good place for this is Mosob in Westbourne Park (close to Notting Hill).

Street food festivals bring the whole world together

London is also home to several street food festivals which offer the chance to sample different cuisines. South America and Asia tend to be particularly well represented. Vegans don't have to go hungry either. 

Urban Food Fest, held in Shoreditch each Saturday, is one of the best ones and one of the reasons why this eclectic neighbourhood (with its run-down bohemian vibe) has become one of my favourites. 

Best of the British - from pie & mash to Michelin stars

Ok, so what ever they might say about the British food, there's time and place for that, too. 

Located in the heart of Covent Garden, Battersea Pie Station is a must for anyone like me; always ready to worship the Holy Trinity of pie, mash and gravy.  

Oh, and make mine a Winstone.

And no trip to London would be complete without a leisurely pub lunch. Fulham's Harwood Arms even has a Michelin star! (Want to feast on a budget? Check out their lunch). 

Reservation practically mandatory.

Duck & Waffle is another great place which combines robust English traditions with continental influences (Foie Gras Crème Brûlée, anyone?). Worth the trip for its spectacular views alone (courtesy of the restaurant's location on 40th floor).

And the best part? Open 24/7!

How about it? Anyone else hungry? What are your London favourites?

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Shish Barak - Palestinian lamb dumplings in coriander, garlic and yogurt sauce

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Shish Barak, lamb dumplings in coriander, garlic and yogurt sauce is one of my fondest Palestinian food memories. Here's my recipe!

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I looooove the holy matrimony between mean and dough in all its forms. Italian tortellinis, Russian pelmenis, Georgian khinkalis, Polish pirogis, Uzbek mantis, Chinese dim sums... ahhhh.

Their Palestinian cousin is called Shish Barak and these lambfilled dumplings are cooked in yogurt. Sounds odd, perhaps, but it works.

Just ask anyone who turned up for my book launch!

Sure, they're a bit laboursome and for an already stressed out author catering her own book launch; scared shitless of the book reviews these are not necessarily the smartest choice to be rolling out the night before...

... though, judging by the rave reviews they received from all the guests, perhaps they were worth all the hassle after all?

In all honesty filling the dumplings is the only actually laboursome part of the process. That's why I usually make a bigger batch and then freeze them in smaller portions.

And I suppose it's all about your own approach: put on some habibi pop, sit down with a friend and start pinching away. Plenty of time to catch up on the gossip (how very authentically Middle Eastern!)

While they might require a bit of work, there's an definite upside to these: they do feed a crowd.

In countries, where dumplings like these are an essential part of the culinary traditions, the families have typically been large and people poor - meaning they've had to feed many mouths for as little as possible.

Meat on the other hand has traditionally been the costliest of ingredients, but when you cleverly combine it with dough, a little goes a long way. Just look at this recipe: quarter of a kilo is enough to feed up to six hungry diners!

Once they're filled, the dumplings can be frozed. Just spread them on a parchment-covered baking tray, place the tray in the freezer for a couple of hours (this prevents the dumplings from sticking to each other) and then freeze in suitable sized portions.

Serves 4-6

Shish Barak - Palestinian lamb dumplings in coriander, garlic and yogurt sauce

the pastry shell:

5 dl all purpose flour

1 tsp salt

0,5 dl oil

2-2 ¼ dl water

Combine flour and salt. Then add oil and mix until you have a crumbly mixture. Then add water and work into a smooth, elastic dough. Cover the dough with a couple of tbsp of oil and leave to rest, covered, while you prepare the filling.

lamb filling for Shish Barak:

1 onion, finely chopped

1,5 tsp bokharat (or 4 epice spice blend)

250 g ground lamb (or beef )

1,5 tsp dried mint 

3/4 tsp salt

a couple of tbsp oil for frying

Heat the oil in a pan. Then sauté onion until translucent. Add the spice blend and, after a couple of minutes the meat, mint and salt. 

Continue cooking until the meat has browned properly. Leave to cook to room temperature.

Divide the dough to 4 portions and keep rest of the dough covered as you're working on one. Roll it thinly (there should be no need for flour) and using a round cutter (or a wine glass) of about 6 cm diameter, cut into discs. 

Fill each disc with about a tsp of the filling and fold into a crescent. Pinch the edges shut, fold the ends behind the dumpling and pinch. 

Place on a parchment-lined tray and keep covered with a tea towel until ready to cook. 

Depending on the size and thickness of the dumplings the recipe yields about 52 dumplings. 

Coriander, garlic and yogurt sauce

1 kg Turkish yogurt

2 dl water

the juice of ½ a lemon

1 tsp salt

1 tsp black pepper 

3 large cloves of garlic, finely minced

3 tbsp fresh coriander, finely chopped

3 tbsp oil

to serve:

za'atar spice blend (can be found at Middle Eastern shops)
toasted pine nuts
rest of the coriander, chopped

Pour the yogurt and water into a large pot and bring to boil over medium heat, stirring every now and then. 

Heat oil in a small pan and sauté garlic and coriander in it.

Add lemon juice into the yogurt, followed by coriander and garlic mixture (along with the oil). Season. 

Add the dumplings into the sauce and simmer for 20 minutes until done. 

Sprinkle some za'ater, pine nuts and rest of the coriander on top of the stew.

Serve as is or accompanied with rice. 

Any of you had Shish Barak yet? Or does Ehud Barak remain your firm favourite...?

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