Taste of Helsinki 2017 - sneak peek behind the scenes

Having sampled several of the dishes available at this year's Taste of Helsinki I can promise you're in for some serious treats!

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This year I'm one of the six ambassadors of Taste of Helsinki which means some serious feasting. And I mean serious. 

While it's still snowing in Finland (in May! What's that about ?!), I've been busy getting ready for what this year, too, will be one of the absolute highlights of my summer. 

The first dishes I sampled at the press launch (more of that on the blog over here) and a couple of days ago I took part in the traditional Restaurant Safari, during which we visited every single restaurant taking part from Helsinki.

6 restaurants, 8 dishes. Oh, and the wine pairings. Ok, and that Champagne tasting. 

Yep - not too shabby at all this ambassadoring business!

Our first stop was Restaurant Grön, voted as the Restaurant of the Year. 

This is the second time they're taking part in the festival and they are in it for real: this tiny restaurant which only sets 24 will remain closed for the duration of the event allowing them to focus on nothing but Taste of Helsinki. 

And boy, will it show. 

Each restaurant will have a menu consisting 3-4 dishes along with a signature dish. We sampled Grön's signature dish: steak tartare, kale with mustard, smoked bone marrow fat and lovage; a dish that in one form or another has always been on the restaurant's menu (and, according to the chef, will continue to do so).

Excellent dish, as was the wine pairing: Planeta Etna Rosso (100% Nerello Mascalese) ,which you've been introduced to on the blog, too (here, here and here). 

According to Barry MacNamara, the man we have to thank for this exciting endeavour, the festival aims to lower the treshold and make fine dining accessible to everyone. 

No wonder then that one of the mosteagerly anticipated restaurants is Savoy; traditionally the hallmark of fine dining in Helsinki.

Out of Savoy's 4-course menu we got to try their signature dish vorschmack: lovingly stwewed for 3 whole days. 

While Savoy's is a very good and balanced one, vorschmack just isn't my thing. The herring dish on the other hand that I sampled at the press launch.... oy. 

And their dessert (lime and basil posset) really couldn't sound more inviting either.

Passio is one of this year's first timers. Located in Kalevankatu they've never done had to do any advertizing -their reputation has preceded them so well you really need a reservation to get in here. 

No wonder - the food is that good. 

Rustic and comforting, yet with a fresh and creative twist. 

We for instance were served delightfully summery gazpacho sorbet (as I said - fresh and creative).

Wish it were summer. 

Wish it were even spring...

Andre Clouet continues to be the festival's Champagne partner for the third summer running.

Being hard-working, multi-talented professionals, we also managed to squeeze in time to sample their products (yes, hard, hard work...)

In Passio we also tried another one of their dishes: sausage and potatos (lamb sausages, new harvest potatos, fried blood pudding). 

After I first dug in, I immediately sent a message to Cat Blogger, notifying her to start the fast as this is a dish we'll be going back for seconds and thirds. 

Do not let the homely appearance fool you - this is going to be one of Taste of Helsinki's hottest tickets. 

After this gem Pastor's Ensalada con tomato y alcachofa (marinated artichoke hearts, heirloom tomato and ponzu sauce) didn't stand a chance, though it did delight with its sauce's deep, rich umami tones. 

Pastor is also one of only two restaurants with octopus on their menu (their signature dish is Pulpo con causa y huevas de trucha; grilled octopus, potato terrine and cold smoked rainbow trout roe), so you can count on finding me in their queue.

So, come say hi while at it!

(and do bring some wine!)

Our safari squad consisted of food writers and bloggers and as such we're quite possibly the most gracious audience one could imagine - starting with the fact we eat absolutely everything. Even from the neighbour's plate...

Plates' content, acidity, complexity, balance, fattiness and appearance however were scrupulously scrutinized, as Passio's staff quickly learned. Let's see if our suggestions will be incorporated into the final dish...!

The other restaurant serving octopus is Toca. This time around, however, we feasted on Bianco, Rosso, Verde - a dish that's a tribute to the owners' love of Italy. 

Their cheese-filled raviolis served with basil sauce and tomato dust were a hit both because of their wonderfully light pastry but also the sophisticated citrusiness. 

(and hey - cheese! I ate cheese!)

Toca's lemon, white chocolate and chamomile dish was the first dessert of the evening. So completely, totally, whole-heartedly my kind of a pud.

Our jury did end up revamping the appearance (deemed too humble) so it remains to be seen what kind of a dish you're all in for at the festival!

We continued with another dessert at Shelter, whose marinated rhubarb, elderflower sherbet and toasted white chocolate dish wasn't a hit wiith all of us.

I personally liked the almond croquant-like toastiness of the oat element but would have to agree that overall the dish was a bit bland.

Their signature dish (gravad wild white fish, white fish roe and new potatos stewed in browned butter) however sounds like something I absolutely need to get my hands on. 

And here is the complete list of this year's Taste of Helsinki menus:

Bistro o Mat:

Smoked beetroot with crispy rye and goat cheese créme (v) -5mk

Organic grilled pork with asparagus and farrotto -6mk

Apple sorbet, roasted white chocolate and salted caramel -6mk

Signature dish:

Organic beef tartar, watercress crème and nuts -10mk

Grön:

MEAT- charred onion filled with chicken liver cream, wheat and crispy chicken skin -6mk

PLANT- roasted buckwheat bread with sorrel flavoured potato salad, grated wild sorrel butter and wild herbs (v) -6mk

WILD- parfait flavoured with spruce shoot vinegar, sunflower seeds, lactic acid and spruce shoot caramel -5mk

Signature dish:

Raw dry aged beef with mustard flavoured kale, lovage and smoked bonemarrow fat -10mk

Ludu:

Organic corn grits, cold smoked carrot, cranberry muesli and dark sauerkraut sauce (v) -5mk

Bream Wallenberg, new potatoes from Rymättylä, bouillabaisse mayonnaise and pea shoot sauce -6mk

White chocolate cremeux, malt crumble, birch sap foam and sorrel ice cream -6mk

Signature dish:

Beef tartar, celery-cucumber salad, brioche and mustard hollandaise -8mk

Noa:

HERRING TARTAR marinated flat onion / apple / sour cream / rye bread -6mk

“TRIIBU” CHEESECAKE berries -6mk

“VANA TALLINN” strong beverage -5mk

Signature dish:

“SPRAT & CHIPS” smoked crisp / salted cucumber / wild garlic mayonnaise / french fries -12mk

Passio:

Gazpacho sorbet and little bit of vege (v) -5mk

Asparagus Soup and Iberico Tempura -6mk

Sausages ‘n’ Potatoes, Lamb Sausages, Black Pudding and New Potatoes -6mk

Signature dish:

Passio Kiss -7mk

Pastor:

ENSALADA CON TOMATO Y ALCACHOFA- Marinated artichoke hearts, heirloom tomatoes, ponzu sauce -6mk

BISTEK TATAKI CON SHIITAKE- Black Angus beef, shimeji mushrooms, pickled shiitake mushrooms, red jalapeño, soy mayonnaise -6mk

TRES LECHES- Vanilla cake, milk sorbet, dulce de leche, lemon meringue -5mk

Signature dish:

PULPO CON CAUSA Y HUEVAS DE TRUCHA- Grilled octopus, potato terrine, cold-smoked salmon roe -8mk

Savoy:

Black currant seasoned Baltic herrings Escabeche, potato pearls and dill crème -6mk

Mousse of grilled goat’s cheese, rosemary and honey almonds and romesco sauce (v) -6mk

Lime and basil posset, white chocolate crystals and strawberry and lemon balm sherbet -5mk

Signature dish:

Vorschmack à la Savoy -7mk

Shelter:

FOREST MUSHROOMS- Emmer wheat porridge with forest mushrooms, cream of Brazil nuts & sprouts with mushroom vinaigrette (v) -6mk

LAMB- 24h braised organic lamb belly, pickled chanterelle & smoked yogurt -6mk

RHUBARB- Marinated rhubarb, elderflower sherbet & roasted white chocolate -5mk

Signature dish:

WHITE FISH- Sugar salted white fish & white fish roe, new potatoes cooked in brown butter & pickled apple -8mk

Toca:

Octopus with parsley garlic mayonnaise and smoked potato -6mk

Toca’s vitello tonnato -6mk

Lemon, white chocolate, camomile -5mk

Signature dish:

White, red, green

Ravioli filled with cheese, basil sauce and tomato powder (v) -8mk

TuOhi:

Rye with Jalotofu and Violet (v) -6mk

Fish terrine with yoghurt and Wild herbs of the season -6mk

Beesting blini, Resin cream and Fermented buckwheat honey -5mk

Signature dish:

Captain Grillheart and His magic herbs -9mk

So... so far out of 40 dishes available I've eaten my way through 11. Trust me - the hunger just keeps growing and I can't wait for June 15th!

Have you purchased your tickets yet? You should and here's where you can do it!!

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In collaboration with

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Vive la Tampere - 5 places for French romance in Tampere

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Romantic minibreak in Tampere? Oui, oui! Here are our tips for creating some French romance in Tampere!

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Gothenburger's job takes us to Tampere on regular intervals. 

Tampere (called Finland's Manchester, owing to its history as the cradle of industrial revolution in Finland) is not what you'd think of at first when planning a romantic minibreak (not even if you're a die-hard Man Utd fan). 

The natives' peculiar sense of humour certainly doesn't do the city any favours (for more of that, read more on the blog here), but pas de problems - have I got just the thing for you! All it takes is a hefty sprinkling of magic dust straight from the country of romance: France!

Oui, oui!

Hanging on to a Hermès scarf (me) and an incomprehendible gurgling and sneaky eye-rolling (Gothenburger) we set out to turn Tampere into city of romance.

Vive La Tampere - here are our 5 tips for French romance in Tampere.

Bon voyage!

1. Grand Hotel Tammer - dekadence and glamour of the world gone by

Bien sûr - first there's the hotel to choose.

Famous as a worker's movement's strong hold, this is not exactly city known for decadence... but luckily they do have Grand Hotel Tammer - perfect for a sumptious escape from reality. 

For more on this hotel gem, please check out my previous blog post.

The hotel rooms get a little extra romance points for the love locks they stock at their minibar (€17) with which you can seal your eternal love at Tammerkoski bridge.

Oh, là là!

2. Quatre Saisons - brilliant lunch and unbeatable value for money

French restaurant Quatre Saisons located in Tampere Market Hall offers quite possibly the best lunch in the city. Great food and excellent value for money.

This little place does not take reservations though, so turn up early (or right before the kitchen closes, in which case you'll just have to make do with what ever's not yet been sold out - zut alors!)

Their bouillabaisse is a classic for a reason. 

Vegetables have been left boldly al dente and the delightful broth owes its deep flavours to star anise (among many other things).

Bowl of this French fishermen's fabulousness along with a glass of Chablis and a wonderfully summery lemon posset € 28,80€.

3. Wistub Alsace - Tarte Flambée and Alsatian wines galore

The overall ambiance of Alsace Wistub probably mimics an Alsatian winstub and is very basic. Service is great though and food tasty - however it's a bit weird to see the dessert menu offering Italian treats such as tiramisu. 

Wine list features many curiosities (for instance Bulgarian wine!), but keep an eye on the Alsatian specialties they import themselves. 

Recently renovated, the restaurant offers down to earth, fairly rustic French feast, though the escargots served in garlic and thyme butter (6 pcs/ €10) were so salty even I raised an eyebrow.

The port wine reduction served with the pheasant and quinoa along with seasonal veg  (€25) was also far too salty, but the pheasant was cooked beautifully.

The main reason to venture here is absolument and hands down their Tarte Flambée - Alsatian equivalent of pizza. 

Merde, how yummy it is! A particularly enthusiastic thumbs up for Gratinée; featuring crispy pastry base slathered with crème fraîche and topped with smoky bacon, onion and cheese (depending on the size €8 / €13). 

Dinner (2 glasses of Cremant d'Alsace, snails, one large Tarte Flambée, pheasant, one dessert with coffee and a bottle of Alsatian Pinot Noir) came to €132,5o.

4. Restaurant Tiiliholvi - classic French cooking with a fresh Nordic twist

I'd be the first to admit my expectations for restaurant Tiiliholvi, located in the cellar next to one of Tampere's numerous theatres, weren't too high. 

Even if the entrance does delightfully echo a Parisian metro station. 

Tant joli!

We were pleasantly surprised though: everything was great. The restaurant was anything but a timewarp stuck in its heyday 30 years ago; passing off steak à la poivre as the height of all culinary sophistication. 

Excellent service, very knowledgeable wine recommendations and really good food which left behind a surprisingly light and fresh impression. 

Surprise menus € 58/ € 69 (4/6 courses); Chef's tasting menu (8 courses) € 80.

Our dinner consisted of a beautifully executed beef carpaccio  with Parmesan crème and all sorts of trimmings (€ 13) along with white fish with passion fruit and lemon verbena (€ 14).

The carpaccio was a stunning celebration of textures and flavours as was the fish, though the corn bread the latter dish featured lent it an unnecessarily stodgy note. 

For mains we had spring chicken (€ 30) with basil and lime (oh yeah - the asparagus season's on!) and flank steak with duck liver butter (Mon Dieu!) with sweet potato and garlic ( € 31).

For afters we shared a charmingly fresh dessert consisting of pistacchio, watermelon and rhubarb three ways along with two glasses of Doux et Fruite Method Ancestrale- sparkling wine from Limoux (á € 11,50). 

Merveilleux!

With apertitif G&T's, two large glasses of wine (an Austrian Grüner pour moi and a New Zealand Pinot Noir for my fabulous date; both excellent matches with the food) and a coffee the total was €189.

PS. In case your budget is a bit more on the flexible side, this place warrants a recommendation for their Champagne selection alone!

5. Café au lait? Some bonbons?

After Cafe La Famille closed its doors, there isn't a French style café in the city, but here are some places that make up for the loss. 

The selection at  bakery Leipomo Brander offers a wide selection of treats even for gluten-free gourmands.

Mama's Corner's (both located in the market hall) glorious chocolates are another must-try.

Ståhlberg Home Bakery & Cafe's location on the upper floor of Koskikeskus, a local shopping centre is not the most romantic, but the ambiance and delicious treats more than warrants a place on the list, too. 

Trés bien!

Even in the throes of all-consuming passion and soul-wrenching love we still couldn't help but sadly note the following things:

- sure, I understand French. But only when nobody else does. 

- It's impossible to even attempt speaking French without the whole performance inadvertedly turning into an Allô, Allô parody with all that nasal ho-ho-hooing. 

- There are things to which even a French accent and a chanson rendition do not lend a romantic twist. Such as "Wonderwall" by Oasis.  Or poo jokes. 

- The more French wine you drink, the more difficult it becomes to actually remember any of the other great things that country has given the world. 

Me: Louis Vuitton, Thierry Hermès, Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Louis-Ernest Ladurée, Dom Pierre Perignon, Voltaire, Claude Monet, Citroën DS, Eric Cantona, Sebastien Chabal, Vincent Cassel, Mathieu Kassowitz, Audrey Tautou, Edith Piaf, Catherine Deneuve...

Gothenburger: Marcel... someone. I think he was a Jew. Hugo Boss?

This Tampere excursion was by far the best yet - Tampere,  je t'aime!

Any of you visited Tampere? Got any recommendations for our next trip there?

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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

           

SHARING IS CARING!