Orangey carrot and tarragon risotto... with a side of obsessive food blogging

Food blogging is a noble profession. But every bit as insane, too. A stack of boards and old doors for staging those photos? A separate arsenal of crockery just for the photos? Never eating food while its still hot? Check, check, check. 

The last minutes before my ongoing trip took the obsession to a whole new level, again. Bag was packed, batteries charged, tickets and passport copies printed and scanned... even my ride to the airport was on its way. But no - I couldn't face the prospect of leaving food in my fridge to rot over the coming weeks. Or the prospect of not having anything happening on the blog while I was away. Dedication? You bet. Alarming? Perhaps that, too.

PS. I used orange-flavoured cream cheese, but if that's not available, just add a couple of tbsp freshly squeezed orange juice and about 1/2 tsp of finely grated orange zest into a regular cream cheese.

A generous portion for one, as a side dish for 2-3

Orangey carrot and tarragon risotto:

250 g carrot, diced into 1 cm cubes

1 shallot

a couple of tbsp butter

3/4 dl good risotto rice

1/2 dl white wine

3 5- dl chicken or vegetable stock

handful of fresh tarragon leaves, finely chopped (reserve some for serving)

50 gr (orange) flavoured cream cheese
some chilli flakes

(parmesan if you wish, as much as you wish)

Peel and dice the carrots. Steam or boil until done (if boiling, reserve the cooking liquid and dissolve the stock cube into that one).

Once the carrots are done, purée half of it and reserve the rest for serving. Start on the risotto.

Finely chop the onion, sauté in some butter and then add rice. Let that too sweat a bit and get sort of translucent and then start adding the stock - a ladleful at a time. Keep the stock hot in another pan and don't add more until the previous batch has been absorbed. When the rice is almost cooked to creamy perfection (try not to stir too much at any point) stir in the tarragon leaves, a little while later cream cheese, carrot puree, carrot cubes, chilli flakes and Parmesan (if using). Serve. On its own or with grilled chicken.

Just look at how sunny the risotto is! And speaking of sun, in the next posts I'll take you here, under the Middle Eastern sun! Better start packing!

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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

      

Arroz negro

Finland (and subsequently I) is going through the darkest period of the year. Literally. In the morning my brain simply refuses to accept the sounds of the alarm, demanding I get out of bed and try to make something of my day. 

None of this is, of course, helped by the fact that neither one of us is a morning person, though it manifests itself in very different ways. The Boy Next Door is paralyzed completely and left to form sentences only after his 7th pint of coffee. And even then, only using lyrics by Pink Floyd. I on the other hand are so full of boiling rage as I try to get the circus on the road I'm surprised my skin hasn't melted away. By the time we're finally out the door, an hour behind the intended schedule (somewhat inevitable result of first hitting the snooze for an hour straight) The Boy Next Door's ridiculously optimistic observations on how "luckily it's only -4" offer no consolation. IT IS COLD! IT IS A GOOD 21 DEGREES BELOW WHAT CONSTITUTES GOOD LIVING!

But if one is hellbent on finding something good to say about the weather it is not having to worry about frozen goods thawing on the way home from the shop. This is what I kept telling myself as I was waiting for the tram the other day, not being able to feel my toes and the freezing wind plastering my eyes shut. Black day called for black rice.

Arroz Negro is a dish typical for Valencia and Catalonia. Sometimes also called Black paella, it gets its regally rich black colour from squid (or cuttlefish) ink. Mine came in 4 g sachets, but especially if you clean and prep your own squid (or cuttlefish), feel free to use the one harvested from them. For instructions as to how to, please see here.

At its simplest the dish consists of squid (or cuttlefish), rice and green pepper. Instead of pepper (which would go into the dish after the onions) I used wakame seaweed left over from that mung bean noodle salad. My initial plan was to whip up a vibrant green vinaigrette of some sort to drizzle around the edges of the dish but in the end (having ran out of both patience, time and creativity) I just folded the seaweed into the dish. A nice addition though as it lends the dish nice, equally oceany lightness. 

Arroz negro differs from its Italian cousin risotto in that all the stock goes into the pan at the same time and is then left to be absorbed over gentle simmer. There's also not a whole lot of stirring involved, so the end result is not as creamy as risotto would be. In case that's the preferred consistency, do add the stock one ladle at a time and towards the end fold in some mascarpone. 

Serves four:

2 shallots

3 dl risotto rice or paella rice

1,5 dl white wine

1-1,25 l shellfish stock (homemade or shop-bought)

25 g squid ink

600 g cleaned squid (frozen whole ones 1 kg)

150 g wakame seaweed

(2 generous tbsp mascarpone)

to serve: the zest of 1/2 lemon, handful of chopped parsley

Marinade for the squid:

1/4 dl olive oil

the zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 - 1 red chilli (depending on your taste and marinating time)

2 garlic cloves

Thaw the squid, clean (for how-to, see here!) and cut into 1 cm-rings. Pat dry. Combine the ingredients for the marinade, pour over the squid and leave to marinate while preparing the rice (or longer, depending on how much time you've got). For a short cut you can skip this phase and toss in the squid to cook with rice before the stock goes in. Drain wakame if needed.

Prepare the rice. Finely chop the onions, sauté in butter and then add rice. Let that, too, sauté until translucent and then add wine and ink. Let those be absorbed and then add stock. Let simmer until rice is almost done (10-20 minutes), adding more stock if needed. A little before the rice is done, drain the squid and fry on a hot (griddle) pan and toss into the rice to finish cooking. Keep the tentacles for serving.

When the rice is cooked (much like with risotto, you want the consistency to be a bit on the loose side as it will set quickly anyway!) fold in wakame (and mascarpone is using) and parsley, leaving some to sprinkle on top of the dish, too. Check the taste and season as needed.

Sprinkle lemon zest and reserved parsley on top along with the tentacles and serve. 

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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

         

Pumpkin risotto

Ok. So if I absolutely had to come up with something good to say about autumn it is the fact that I finally get  to bring out the sturdier recipes, designed to keep one warm in the chilly weather. Such as risottos. 

Then there is the September issue of InStyle full of all those irresistible must haves for the new season. And the passion for thick cable knits and tartan that gets re-ignited at this time of the year, every year (yes, this year, too). As a result of the last two a new cape made its way into my wardrobe. Sure, a cape is just about the most practical piece of clothing one could possibly own in a country like Finland: twice a year there's a 2-hour window during which it's not yet too wintry but still manages to keep its wearer even somehow warm. See, fashion blogging is so not for me, so I'd better concentrate on food. And food blogging. And that risotto. 

Just look at those colours: so reminiscent of the flag of my favourite country... (no, not Macedonia)

Since pumpkin fever is far from over, I just had to have some risotto. And I think it just might have become my new pumpkin favourite. Yes, possibly even more comforting than pumpkin gnocchi. The gentle sweetness of the pumpkin can carry strong accompaniments like morcilla, too, so I served mine with Serrano ham, roasted on parchment-lined tray at 200º until crisp and then broken to shards. If you want to pay tribute to the Italian roots of risotto then certo you can use prosciutto. I just happen to like the depth Jamón Serrano has. Yes, bacon works too. And if you really want to impress your fellow diners, you can make the sort of spirals I served my salmorejo with. 

Serves 2 generously, 3 with some moderation and 4 as a starter

500 g pumpkin (for instance half of one 1,4 kg Hokkaido)

a couple of tbsp oil

1/2 tsp ground coriander seeds

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/2-1 tsp chilli flakes (or fresh red chilli)

salt, black pepper

1 shallot

butter

1,5 dl good risotto rice

1 dl white wine

0,5 - 0,75 l chicken or vegetable stock (preferably low-sodium)

handful of sage leaves

100 ricotta

(parmesan if you wish, as much as you wish)

Cut the pumpkin in half and scoop out the seeds. Peel and cut into chunks. Heat the oil and add the spices. Cook for a moment to release the aromas and pour over the pumpkin. Season generously and roast at 200º until soft, 15-25- minutes depending on the size. While the pumpkin roasts, start preparing the risotto.

Once the pumpkin is done, purée half of it and cut the other half into smaller cubes. Roast the Serrano ham until crisp (about 10 minutes). Let cool on kitchen towel and break into chunks.

Finely chop the onion, sauté in some butter and then add rice, Let that too sweat a bit and get sort of translucent and then start adding the stock - a ladle full at a time. Keep the stock hot in another pan and don't add more until the previous batch has been absorbed. When the rice is almost cooked to creamy perfection (try not to stir too much at any point) stir in the finely chopped sage leaves, a little while later ricotta, pumpkin puree, pumpkin cubes and Parmesan (if using). Serve. Quickly. With crisp Serrano crisps or bacon. If you're on a pork-free diet, you can give the dish more texture with some dry roasted pumpkin seeds. 

Soave Classico would work with this dish though I decided to give Lindeman's Early Harvest Semillon Sauvignon Blanc a go. And you know what? Not bad. Not bad at all. Owing to early harvest the sugar content (and subsequently the alcohol and calorie content) remains lower. Yet, unlike the totally non-alcoholic Jacob's Creek Unvined Riesling that was tested on the blog earlier, this one does have more acidity and as such more body so it would work with light dishes though it is best drank on its own. Wine's acidity balanced the creaminess of the risotto and its herby notes worked well with sage. 

Oh, and get this: Henry John Lindeman, the founder of the eponymous winery was actually a doctor convinced of the health benefits of wine and firmly believed that "wine is meant to bring joy and happiness". 

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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

      


   

MILEY CYRUS! NAKED!

At Tzatziki Champion's birthday The Tunisian who works in IT (does anybody work anywhere else these days?) have me a lecture in IT. My brain, hardwired to only speak Food blogging, did their best to keep up. There was something about "reaching the local maxim", "finding a new angle" and search engine maximising". The communications technology savvy among us had no words to express their shock at finding out I don't even tweet. And am not (open hearting) in Instagram. And that I have only ever once used a hashtag. And even then by accident.

Based on what I took from this sermon I know now that in order to keep the blog growing, I should pay attention on the following: change one aspect of it in order to reach a new audience. The audience was kind of enough to suggest a LGBTG angle, which I found... well, odd. See, I have foolishly thought that the gay people eat what others eat, too...?

Another advice was on the keywords. In headings and such. Apparently there shouldn't be any correlation between them and the actual content. One of the most popular choices I was suggested went along the lines of "Naked Miley Cyrus" and "Justin Bieber's balls". As I (being the great humanitarian I am) pointed out (what I felt was a very valid observation) that a new reader, hungry for scandals, might feel a little bit cheated should they then be greeted with a recipe for, say, Greek meat balls. 

So, for those of you already following this blog, I have an inside tip: In case you anytime in the future run into titles like those, don't get your hopes up. I'd also welcome healthy dose of skepticism regarding revelations about "the shocking truth behind North Korea's space program". 

So, today doesn't have any libellious law suit-laden, gagging order-warranting surprises in store. Instead you'll be treated to beetroot risotto. But my God, how good a risotto! I served mine with fish, but you can serve it as a main on its own - it's that comforting and rich. A vegetarian might top it off with goat cheese crumbs. Or serve it with crisp fried halloumi that's been tossed in say, finely ground walnut crumbs.

Serves 4

500 g beets (about 4)
3 dl good risotto rice
1 dl white wine
1-1,2 l vegetarian stock
1 smallish red onion
butter
a handful of dill, chopped
a dash of good, syrupy balsamico
1 generous tbsp mascarpone (or Greek yogurt)

Peel the beets. Roughly cut them up and either roast them in the oven with a dash of olive oil and a sprinkling of salt and pepper or boil them until done. If you roast them, blizz about 1/3 into a puré and finely chop the rest. If you boil them, do absolutely reserve the gloriously coloured liquid and use it to dissolve the stock cubes adding more water as needed.

Finely chop the onion, sauté in some butter and then add rice, Let that too sweat a bit and get sort of translucent and then start adding the stock - a ladle full at a time. Keep the stock hot in another pan and don't add more until the previous batch has been absorbed. When the rice is almost cooked to creamy perfection (try not to stir too much at any point) stir in the beets, finely chopped dill and mascarpone. Leave the risotto runny, as it starts setting quickly anyway. Toss in some good quality balsamico.

In case you're a food blogger on the hunt for that perfect shot (or one of those people who do not believe they've actually had anything to eat until it's been documented on Instagram) you do want to get the settings (and the discarded coffee bags you've picked up at the local roastery just for the staging!) out of the way in advance as unlike say, love (!), risotto isn't one of those things that get better the longer you wait.

I served mine with fish. Mix about 1 dl of flour with the grated zest of 1 lemon and season well. Toss the fish (about 200 g/ person) in them and shake off excess. Fry quickly in a bit of butter until they're gloriously golden and crisp on the outside and creamy on the  inside and serve with risotto.

Enjoy. And don't forget to tweet about it! Caring is sharing!

#oneofthebestthingsinawhile

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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?


        

Lemony risotto with asparagus and prawns

The asparagus theme continues - today's entry: risotto. Sure, risotto isn't necessarily the lightest dish for summer... but let's face it: it is gooooood.

If the prawns you're using are the whole, raw variety, you might want to cook some shellfish stock from the shells and use it for the risotto, continuing with some fish/seafood stock or fond (2 tbsp for 1/2 liters of water). Remember to keep the stock hot in a pot as you cook the risotto.

For 3-4

3,5 dl risotto rice

9-12 dl fish/ seafood stock

3 shallots/ 1 small onion/ 1/2 of a bigger kind

1 large garlic clove or 2 small ones

1 generous tbsp butter + more to finish

1 bundle of asparagus (appr. 500 g)

500 g king prawns

1 dl white wine

the zest of 1/2 lemon

1 generous tbsp chopped chives

Fry finely chopped onion and garlic in butter. Add rice and stir until translucent. Then add wine. Once it has been absorbed, start adding hot stock, one ladle at a time. Keep stirring. The texture of the finished product should be loose.

Once the rice is almost done (around 20 minutes) fold in the prawns and let the heat cook them.  OR (if using raw ones) grill them until done separately after having tossed them around in a bit of oil, salt, pepper and lemon juice).

Snap off the woody ends of the asparagus, chop them into a couple of centimetre long pieces and and steam them or cook them in a little water until done (about 5 minutes). Fold them into the risotto too. Before serving add a knob of butter into the risotto, along with chopped chives and grated lemon zest. Season to taste and serve. With some chilled white wine. On a sunny terrace. Ooooh, summer...

Mushroom risotto

I. Love. Mushrooms. It took me a while to warm to them but I sure have been busy making up for the lost time. In my dreams I hop and skip in the woods with an elegant wicker basket dangling off my arm, stumbling upon magnificently meaty delicacies that I then turn into treats raved by my dinner guests.

Of course this fantasy is somewhat clouded by the fact that I would not even know where those mushroom-housing woods can be found and the only wild mushroom I'd even recognize is the one that kills you. After a bout of severe sickness and horrid hallucinations. So, I have no choice but to satisfy my hunting and gathering instincts either at the market in Malaga or in the supermarket.

One of my absolute favourite uses for mushrooms is risotto. You can use pretty much any mushrooms for it, but I find the best risotto is a result of a blend of different mushrooms. This time mine was a mix of portobello, brown button mushrooms and Japanese mushrooms the name of which I forgot to write down (but they looked like enokitaki).

For those who the mere idea of making risotto fills with dread: no need. As long as you remember these few things, you're all set. Make sure you get the right rice. Rices are different and Uncle Ben's just won't do. Keep the stock hot in another pot as you make the risotto. Keep stirring. Leisurely though. Only add the next ladel of stock as the previous one has absorbed. Keep the texture loose.

 

As a main this feeds 3-4, as a side (depending on the portion size) this is enough for 5-6.

appr. 300 g mushrooms 

100 g bacon cubes

3 shallots or 1 regular, smallish onion

4 dl risotto rice

1 dl white wine

1-1,2 l chicken stock

thyme

butter

(parmesan for those who like cheese)

Slice the mushrooms and fry in a hot pan. Once the liquid has evaporated and they have a bit of colour, add a knob of butter which will infuse them with flavour, but also gives them a nice sheen.

In another pan fry the bacon until crisp. Then add finely chopped onions and a bit of butter. Once the onion is translucent then add rice. Let cook for a while until translucent and then add the wine. Once it has been absorbed, start adding stock one ladel at a time, only adding the next one after the previous has been absorbed. Continue, stirring, until the rice is creamy and cooked to your liking - about 20-30 minutes. The texture should be loose.

Add a couple of thyme sprigs, a knob of butter and (if you want) a handful of parmesan. The fold in the mushrooms and voilá - that's another food fear conquered!

It is delicious as it is, but also works wonderfully with chocolatey oxtail...