Shish Barak - Palestinian lamb dumplings in coriander, garlic and yogurt sauce

* * * 
Shish Barak, lamb dumplings in coriander, garlic and yogurt sauce is one of my fondest Palestinian food memories. Here's my recipe!

* * * 

I looooove the holy matrimony between mean and dough in all its forms. Italian tortellinis, Russian pelmenis, Georgian khinkalis, Polish pirogis, Uzbek mantis, Chinese dim sums... ahhhh.

Their Palestinian cousin is called Shish Barak and these lambfilled dumplings are cooked in yogurt. Sounds odd, perhaps, but it works.

Just ask anyone who turned up for my book launch!

Sure, they're a bit laboursome and for an already stressed out author catering her own book launch; scared shitless of the book reviews these are not necessarily the smartest choice to be rolling out the night before...

... though, judging by the rave reviews they received from all the guests, perhaps they were worth all the hassle after all?

In all honesty filling the dumplings is the only actually laboursome part of the process. That's why I usually make a bigger batch and then freeze them in smaller portions.

And I suppose it's all about your own approach: put on some habibi pop, sit down with a friend and start pinching away. Plenty of time to catch up on the gossip (how very authentically Middle Eastern!)

While they might require a bit of work, there's an definite upside to these: they do feed a crowd.

In countries, where dumplings like these are an essential part of the culinary traditions, the families have typically been large and people poor - meaning they've had to feed many mouths for as little as possible.

Meat on the other hand has traditionally been the costliest of ingredients, but when you cleverly combine it with dough, a little goes a long way. Just look at this recipe: quarter of a kilo is enough to feed up to six hungry diners!

Once they're filled, the dumplings can be frozed. Just spread them on a parchment-covered baking tray, place the tray in the freezer for a couple of hours (this prevents the dumplings from sticking to each other) and then freeze in suitable sized portions.

Serves 4-6

Shish Barak - Palestinian lamb dumplings in coriander, garlic and yogurt sauce

the pastry shell:

5 dl all purpose flour

1 tsp salt

0,5 dl oil

2-2 ¼ dl water

Combine flour and salt. Then add oil and mix until you have a crumbly mixture. Then add water and work into a smooth, elastic dough. Cover the dough with a couple of tbsp of oil and leave to rest, covered, while you prepare the filling.

lamb filling for Shish Barak:

1 onion, finely chopped

1,5 tsp bokharat (or 4 epice spice blend)

250 g ground lamb (or beef )

1,5 tsp dried mint 

3/4 tsp salt

a couple of tbsp oil for frying

Heat the oil in a pan. Then sauté onion until translucent. Add the spice blend and, after a couple of minutes the meat, mint and salt. 

Continue cooking until the meat has browned properly. Leave to cook to room temperature.

Divide the dough to 4 portions and keep rest of the dough covered as you're working on one. Roll it thinly (there should be no need for flour) and using a round cutter (or a wine glass) of about 6 cm diameter, cut into discs. 

Fill each disc with about a tsp of the filling and fold into a crescent. Pinch the edges shut, fold the ends behind the dumpling and pinch. 

Place on a parchment-lined tray and keep covered with a tea towel until ready to cook. 

Depending on the size and thickness of the dumplings the recipe yields about 52 dumplings. 

Coriander, garlic and yogurt sauce

1 kg Turkish yogurt

2 dl water

the juice of ½ a lemon

1 tsp salt

1 tsp black pepper 

3 large cloves of garlic, finely minced

3 tbsp fresh coriander, finely chopped

3 tbsp oil

to serve:

za'atar spice blend (can be found at Middle Eastern shops)
toasted pine nuts
rest of the coriander, chopped

Pour the yogurt and water into a large pot and bring to boil over medium heat, stirring every now and then. 

Heat oil in a small pan and sauté garlic and coriander in it.

Add lemon juice into the yogurt, followed by coriander and garlic mixture (along with the oil). Season. 

Add the dumplings into the sauce and simmer for 20 minutes until done. 

Sprinkle some za'ater, pine nuts and rest of the coriander on top of the stew.

Serve as is or accompanied with rice. 

Any of you had Shish Barak yet? Or does Ehud Barak remain your firm favourite...?

___________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

         

SHARING IS CARING!

Tarte Flambée (Flammkuche) - Alsatian pizza with smoky bacon and cheese

* * * 

Tarte Flambée (Flammkuche) is Alsatian take on pizzza. Wonderfully easy and bacony treat!

* * * 

After another delightful day with my gorgeous Gothenburger I grabbed his hand, looked deep into his eyes and (in an apparent attempt at Femme Fatale) whispered in my most soulfully deep voice the following question: "you know what I love?"

He looked back at me, flashing that smile of his that makes me all weak at the knees and answered, in an every bit as seductive voice: "pizza."

Romantic moment. So totally over. 

Though I suppose it won't come as a surprise to anyone who's ever read this blog: I really, truly, madly love pizza (hey - I've even featured a breakfast pizza on the blog!)

But seeing how I still have some issues with cheese (rather essential part of the pizza, non?), I'm particularly fond of different local pizza varieties around the world that don't feature it, such as Turkish lahmacun and pide and Arabic sfiha which is one of my favourite recipes in my new book.

There are some serious treats to be found in Europe, too: Alsace is not just one my favourite wine regions in the world - it's also home to Tarte Flambée which either might or might not have cheese in it. No wonder I'm so into it - the most popular version is laced with bacon. 

And bacon, as we all know, equals love. Oh, it does - ask anyone. 

The lack of cheese won't mean dry, though (as my Italian potato and rosemary pizza shows) - this is something that a generous dollop of crème fraîche takes care of.

Tarte Flambée is something that one doesn't often come across in Finland, but the one they make at Wistub Alsace in Tampere is so good it just might warrant a day trip all on its own. 

And in case you need more inspiration for Tampere, Finland's answer to Gothenburg, just check the blog over here and here.

Depending on the region Tarte Flambée is also known as Flammkuche. Initially it was a rustic fare that the German-speaking farmers would make at home and it only started appearing on restaurant menus during 1960's pizza boom. 

This version is called Gratinée. Other popular versions include Forestière (with mushrooms) and Münster (topped with its namesake cheese), but there's also a sweet dessert version featuring cinnamon, thinly sliced apples and usually a sprinkling of Calvados.

makes 2 large ones or 4 smaller ones 

Tarte Flambée Gratinée - Alsatian pizza with smoky bacon and cheese 

the base:

2,5 tsp dry yeast
1,5 tsp sugar
1,5 dl warm water
1,5 tbsp oil
4 dl flour (00- grade if possible)
1/2 tsp salt

toppings:

150 g tub of crème fraîche
a couple of handfuls of grated cheese (Gruyère is a classic choice)
140 g (smoky) bacon
1 small onion, thinly sliced

To serve: finely chopped chives (optional), freshly ground black pepper

Combine dry yeast, water and sugar and leave aside, covered for 5 minutes while the yeast activates. 

Then add oil, flour (and along with the last dl of flour) salt. Knead into a smooth dough. Cover with cling film and leave to double in size in a warm place for an hour. 

Pre-heat the oven to 250ºc  at this point (in a fan assisted oven 230 should do). If you have a pizza stone, leave in in the oven. If not, then do the same with the tray.

Cut the bacon into strips of desired size and cook in a pan over medium heat until they start to get crunchy. Remove from the pan (using a slotted spoon) and transer aside. 

Divide the dough into 2 or 4 balls. Roll each out into a thin disc. You shouldn't need any more flour at this point, so it's easiest to do this on a parchment, which in turn makes it easy to flip it over onto hot tray. 

Pre-bake the base for about 4 minutes, Smear the base with crème fraîche and sprinkle the grated cheese on top of it. Top with bacon and thinly sliced onion rings and continue cooking until cheese has melted.

Garnish with chives (if using) and black pepper. Serve. 

For more pizza recipes on the blog, just click on the following:

-  breakfast pizza with smoked salmon, spinach, eggs and fool-proof Hollandaise
-  Italian potato and rosemary pizza
- Lebanese lamb pizza
- pide - Turkish pizza

- pizza with Prosciutto, pear and Brie

- pizza with duck confit

- pumpkin and chorizo pizza

Has Tarte Flambée/ Flammkuche stolen your hearts already?

___________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

           

SHARING IS CARING!

Vive la Tampere - 5 places for French romance in Tampere

* * * 

Romantic minibreak in Tampere? Oui, oui! Here are our tips for creating some French romance in Tampere!

* * *

Gothenburger's job takes us to Tampere on regular intervals. 

Tampere (called Finland's Manchester, owing to its history as the cradle of industrial revolution in Finland) is not what you'd think of at first when planning a romantic minibreak (not even if you're a die-hard Man Utd fan). 

The natives' peculiar sense of humour certainly doesn't do the city any favours (for more of that, read more on the blog here), but pas de problems - have I got just the thing for you! All it takes is a hefty sprinkling of magic dust straight from the country of romance: France!

Oui, oui!

Hanging on to a Hermès scarf (me) and an incomprehendible gurgling and sneaky eye-rolling (Gothenburger) we set out to turn Tampere into city of romance.

Vive La Tampere - here are our 5 tips for French romance in Tampere.

Bon voyage!

1. Grand Hotel Tammer - dekadence and glamour of the world gone by

Bien sûr - first there's the hotel to choose.

Famous as a worker's movement's strong hold, this is not exactly city known for decadence... but luckily they do have Grand Hotel Tammer - perfect for a sumptious escape from reality. 

For more on this hotel gem, please check out my previous blog post.

The hotel rooms get a little extra romance points for the love locks they stock at their minibar (€17) with which you can seal your eternal love at Tammerkoski bridge.

Oh, là là!

2. Quatre Saisons - brilliant lunch and unbeatable value for money

French restaurant Quatre Saisons located in Tampere Market Hall offers quite possibly the best lunch in the city. Great food and excellent value for money.

This little place does not take reservations though, so turn up early (or right before the kitchen closes, in which case you'll just have to make do with what ever's not yet been sold out - zut alors!)

Their bouillabaisse is a classic for a reason. 

Vegetables have been left boldly al dente and the delightful broth owes its deep flavours to star anise (among many other things).

Bowl of this French fishermen's fabulousness along with a glass of Chablis and a wonderfully summery lemon posset € 28,80€.

3. Wistub Alsace - Tarte Flambée and Alsatian wines galore

The overall ambiance of Alsace Wistub probably mimics an Alsatian winstub and is very basic. Service is great though and food tasty - however it's a bit weird to see the dessert menu offering Italian treats such as tiramisu. 

Wine list features many curiosities (for instance Bulgarian wine!), but keep an eye on the Alsatian specialties they import themselves. 

Recently renovated, the restaurant offers down to earth, fairly rustic French feast, though the escargots served in garlic and thyme butter (6 pcs/ €10) were so salty even I raised an eyebrow.

The port wine reduction served with the pheasant and quinoa along with seasonal veg  (€25) was also far too salty, but the pheasant was cooked beautifully.

The main reason to venture here is absolument and hands down their Tarte Flambée - Alsatian equivalent of pizza. 

Merde, how yummy it is! A particularly enthusiastic thumbs up for Gratinée; featuring crispy pastry base slathered with crème fraîche and topped with smoky bacon, onion and cheese (depending on the size €8 / €13). 

Dinner (2 glasses of Cremant d'Alsace, snails, one large Tarte Flambée, pheasant, one dessert with coffee and a bottle of Alsatian Pinot Noir) came to €132,5o.

4. Restaurant Tiiliholvi - classic French cooking with a fresh Nordic twist

I'd be the first to admit my expectations for restaurant Tiiliholvi, located in the cellar next to one of Tampere's numerous theatres, weren't too high. 

Even if the entrance does delightfully echo a Parisian metro station. 

Tant joli!

We were pleasantly surprised though: everything was great. The restaurant was anything but a timewarp stuck in its heyday 30 years ago; passing off steak à la poivre as the height of all culinary sophistication. 

Excellent service, very knowledgeable wine recommendations and really good food which left behind a surprisingly light and fresh impression. 

Surprise menus € 58/ € 69 (4/6 courses); Chef's tasting menu (8 courses) € 80.

Our dinner consisted of a beautifully executed beef carpaccio  with Parmesan crème and all sorts of trimmings (€ 13) along with white fish with passion fruit and lemon verbena (€ 14).

The carpaccio was a stunning celebration of textures and flavours as was the fish, though the corn bread the latter dish featured lent it an unnecessarily stodgy note. 

For mains we had spring chicken (€ 30) with basil and lime (oh yeah - the asparagus season's on!) and flank steak with duck liver butter (Mon Dieu!) with sweet potato and garlic ( € 31).

For afters we shared a charmingly fresh dessert consisting of pistacchio, watermelon and rhubarb three ways along with two glasses of Doux et Fruite Method Ancestrale- sparkling wine from Limoux (á € 11,50). 

Merveilleux!

With apertitif G&T's, two large glasses of wine (an Austrian Grüner pour moi and a New Zealand Pinot Noir for my fabulous date; both excellent matches with the food) and a coffee the total was €189.

PS. In case your budget is a bit more on the flexible side, this place warrants a recommendation for their Champagne selection alone!

5. Café au lait? Some bonbons?

After Cafe La Famille closed its doors, there isn't a French style café in the city, but here are some places that make up for the loss. 

The selection at  bakery Leipomo Brander offers a wide selection of treats even for gluten-free gourmands.

Mama's Corner's (both located in the market hall) glorious chocolates are another must-try.

Ståhlberg Home Bakery & Cafe's location on the upper floor of Koskikeskus, a local shopping centre is not the most romantic, but the ambiance and delicious treats more than warrants a place on the list, too. 

Trés bien!

Even in the throes of all-consuming passion and soul-wrenching love we still couldn't help but sadly note the following things:

- sure, I understand French. But only when nobody else does. 

- It's impossible to even attempt speaking French without the whole performance inadvertedly turning into an Allô, Allô parody with all that nasal ho-ho-hooing. 

- There are things to which even a French accent and a chanson rendition do not lend a romantic twist. Such as "Wonderwall" by Oasis.  Or poo jokes. 

- The more French wine you drink, the more difficult it becomes to actually remember any of the other great things that country has given the world. 

Me: Louis Vuitton, Thierry Hermès, Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Louis-Ernest Ladurée, Dom Pierre Perignon, Voltaire, Claude Monet, Citroën DS, Eric Cantona, Sebastien Chabal, Vincent Cassel, Mathieu Kassowitz, Audrey Tautou, Edith Piaf, Catherine Deneuve...

Gothenburger: Marcel... someone. I think he was a Jew. Hugo Boss?

This Tampere excursion was by far the best yet - Tampere,  je t'aime!

Any of you visited Tampere? Got any recommendations for our next trip there?

__________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

           

SHARING IS CARING!

Grand Hotel Tammer - superb service in sumptious surroundings

* * *

 Can a hotel in Tampere live up to the expectations of name such as Grand Hotel? Yes. Grand Hotel Tammer offers superb service in sumptious surroundings.

* * * 

Grand Hotel.

Already its name evokes such grandiose (and justified) expectations. 

Luxurious ambiance echoing the glamour of a world gone by. Gold and glitter; velour and wow-factors. Champagne bottles joyously popping open under the endless chandeliers. 

Ladies dripping with fur and diamonds; top hat-clad doormen whose eyes have seen it all but whose discreet silence guarantees that the secret lives of the aforementioned ladies' husbands remain just that: a secret.

Unfortunately nowhere in the world is there a dedicated auhority, operating under the anonymity of a secret society overseeing whether the facility itself has what it takes to live up to the expectations set by a name as grand as a Grand Hotel.

Rather sadly this is not always the case, as for instance Grand Hotel Velingrad (by Bulgarian standard awarder with at least a gazillion stars) has showed.

Grand Hotel Stockholm on the other hand did, and with its glorious settings, sublime service and lovely spa (and those White Ladies served by their renowned cocktail lounge) it firmly remains as one of my favourite hotels ever. 

They say that in each city there's only room for one Grand Hotel. In Finland there's only one in the whole country: Grand Hotel Tammer in Tampere. 

Opened in 1929 GHT is the oldest hotel in Tampere.

Its launch back in the day was such an event that there was only one hotel in Finland able to rival its luxurious standards: Hotel Kämp in Helsinki. GHT proudly advertized itself as "perfect in every hotel-technical way".

Its opening year 1929 was Tampere's 150th jubilee, but tragically in the middle of a global recession the timing couldn't have been worse. 

So, this international standard luxury hotel didn't have a choice but to start search for a manager in the international luxury hotel scene. They found one from Cannes, where one Alexander Adlivankin (originally from St. Petersburg) had created his own hotel and restaurant empire. 

He agreed to take on GHT's lease, the conditions of which required him furnish the hotel down to its crockery and cutlery. 

His (and his Finnish-born wife's) moving truck must have been a sizable one, but many of the furnitures brought over from France at the time are still in use in the hotel today.

Located near the Tammerkoski river, in the serene surroundings of Tammerpuisto park the neo-classicalbuilding is protected by the Museum authority. 

Unlike nouveau riche, its facade's quitely confident dignity doesn't make a spectacle out of itself.

Over the years the hotel has been lovingly restaured, carefully retaining many of its original features. Already its entrance entices one to step inside; with a wink in her eyes she whispers you promises of decadence. 

You will have to open the door by youself though - there are no dignified old men in top hats anywhere in sight. Oh, well.

As one steps inside, the visitor is greeted by lond corridors with monogrammed carpets, rows of sparkly chandeliers, antique sofas draped in velour - all the carefully chosen details paying homage to a glamorous Old World era, wrapping you into their arms and welcoming you into a world where time stands still. 

"Take a breath", the walls seem to say. "Relax. This is the time to enjoy. How about a cocktail to woo you in the right mood?"

Painstaking attention has been paid to the details and maintaining the right ambiance- one's eyes are busy trying to take it all in. 

Sumptious seating arrangements that invite you to sink in and forget about the world. Old photos that capture the hotel's glorious history. Antique cabinets brimming with old dishes used in the restaurant .

And yes, gold and glitter.

(Oh, and the most adorable powder room-complete with a chaisse-longue!

This is a place where parties have continued well into the morning - oh, the things these wall could tell!

As a professional soldier and an incurable history nerd (step aside ladies - this one's mine!) Gothenburger was thrilled to find this plaque in the atrium; telling how the hotel had back in January 1946 acted as the venue for a get-together of the surviving members of a war-time elite squad known as "Törni's jägers"... only for them to slapped with a life-long ban.

(That must have been one hell of a party!)

Ah. 

The atrium. Quite possibly my favourite place in the hotel.

It's glass-roofed serenity offers a perfect refuge when the weather outiside is bad; creating a nice bubble in which you can indulge illusions of retiring into the library of your very own mansion (oh, come on - don't tell me you wouldn't!).

A pot of tea, wrapped in a blanket and immersing oneself into one of the many books on offer... or a G&T-fuelled Trivial Pursuit tournament to pass the afternoon. 

(Our current TP ranking puts me and the Gothenburger at an even score - the situation is downright unbearable and demands a rematch).

Our room was located o the 6th floor and offered spectacular views over Tampere rooftops. 

The Standard- room itself (depending on the day of the week price per night is around €140) was cosy, yet a little on the small side for our liking. 

There was no bath either (let's face it: one of the reasons why I travel), so for next time we'll upgrade ourselves into a room that has. 

The rooms are carefully restaured with consideration for the old and this becomes evident particularly in the bathroom. The shower for instance was such a beauty, but the water pressure was too low. 

The glorious settings continue all throughout the public space, such as in the banquet hall where breakfast is served. 

Underneath the carved wooden arches and chandeliers in a room where the ceiling height must be at least 10 meters... can't think of a better setting for a breakfast - the most important meal of the day (and the other reason why I travel).

(Especially seeing how true to their style even tea was served in monogrammed silver pots!)

The quality of the extensive breakfast was exactly what you'd expect from Radisson Blu. The cold cuts and vegetable array was varied and gluten-free guests had been taken well into consideration with their own separate selection. 

Bacon was largely optimally crozzled and those in search for healthier ways to start their day are probably thrilled with the daily changing porridge option. 

The staff's excellent customer service skills warrant a mention of their own.

We were offered a late check-out already upon checking in (depending on the booking situation this free of charge until 6pm!) and we gladly took up on it - enjoying the lovely hotel (and ourselves!) until the last possible minute. 

The hotel, which last year was acquired by the Radisson Blu chain, has become a firm favourite in Tampere: last year it was awarded with Trip Advisor's Travellers' Choice accolade.

Thank you for a wonderful stay, Grand Hotel Tammer - you truly are the Grand Old Dame of Tampere hotels. We can't wait to be back!

How about you? Did GHT's Old World charm win you over, too?

* * * 

Grand Hotel Tammer

Satakunnankatu 13

33100 Tampere

tel. 020 123 4632

hotel's website

* * * 

___________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

            

SHARING IS CARING!