Fiskars, take 2

The village itself, in addition to Wärdshus and its delightful dinner, made us fall in love with Fiskars just a little bit more. 

There's plenty to see and history is very much present here - this year actually marks the 365th anniversary of the village!

We weren't exactly pampered by the weather as tends to be the case towards the fickle end of the summer. The rain alternated between torrential and monsoon-like, but every now and then there were glimpses of sunny skies when we ventured on an expedition with a proper camera, too. 

Fiskars has traditionally been a lively centre for arts and crafts. And nature - that's another thing they have going for them.

We even spotted the sign that spells the end of summer more efficiently than womens' glossies' September issues. Yep, autumn is here (and apparently with it, animal print!!!)

Naturally all sorts of outdoorsiness leaves one awfully hungry (for a new restaurant to try). So, we decided on a lunch at Restaurant Kuparipaja, located in charmingly English surroundings, echoing The Wind in the Willows.

The clear sky (having just spat out last of the rain) and the terrace overlooking the river running through the village made us want to lunch outside, but the waitress just wouldn't have any of that. Our speeches of how we wouldn't even mind a little rain (the terrace was covered by huge parasols after all) were met with condescending "yeah but what about me, then!". Oh, so sorry we tried to bother you. 

By the time we were ushered into the canteen-like dining hall upstairs as if we we're about to have a telling off by the headmaster, our interest in the lunch and the place had significantly diminished and we settled for two quick beers and herring platters. The platters were good. Potatos were outstanding and the tar-infused herring was an absolute delight. Unlike the customer service. There was only one other couple sitting in the restaurant, so one can only hope they had the staff's undivided attention. 

The food at Kuparipaja might be really nice (we'll never know) but should anyone ask me for recommendations in Fiskars, I'd refer them to Wärdshus. 

Petri's Chocolate Room is the destination for sweet treats (well, we do have a whopping 50 metre- trek to our own shop at Museokatu back home...), both to indulge in on the premises and to take back home (they'd never make it there...)

Petri's is celebrating hand-made chocolate in Fiskars until September 14th, so if you're around, do pay them a visit. There will be specials! And tastings!

It wasn't all PR dribble, that, you know. Fiskars really is really happening! Last weekend they had their own foodie fair celebrating the small local producers' goodies. Next week sees the first ever Highland games (yes, you heard correct! Put on that kilt and win over that wee lassie's heart by throwing that pole as far as you can!) and the end of October welcomes the annual Slow Food Festival!

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Dinner at Fiskars Wärdshus

The talent of the local craftsmen, showcased everywhere at Fiskars Wärdshus hotel, is also proudly on display at their restaurant.

The overall look at the dining hall continues the peacefully simple and elegant atmosphere of the hotel.

Menu; both food and wine is short and thought-through. Emphasis (here, too) is on seasonal and local produce. Bread (this time with dill and basil) is hand-made on the premises.

Luckily there were two of us so we got to try all the goodies I'd been drooling over. In my attempt (they're rather frequent though somewhat short-lived) to be less of a bulldozer I let my date to pick his meal first. Of course he just had to go and choose the duck liver I'd been dreaming of ever since we booked our stay. Already bracing myself for massive food envy I went for crayfish tails instead.

Trying to remember everything we've been learning about wines we tried to navigate our way through the wine list but couldn't really agree on the destination. Luckily the waitress suggested Champagne. Can't really go wrong with that one, can you? Pannier Brut Selection had dry acidity and gentle toastiness that we both liked. 

Already at this point the dinner had proved it pays off to leave the city every now and then and broaden one's horizons. I sure had not expected to encounter something like duck liver on the menu - let alone as beautifully presented as it was. 

It was cooked every bit as beautifully too. We didn't even think to ask about the origins of the duck! Cherry compote was a fantastic addition though I personally couldn't figure out what I ultimately felt about the pea crème addition. The Boy Next Door was sold, however.

And lo and behold - there was no sign of any type of envy as my portion was brought in. A truly spectacular dish. Chili gave the browned butter just the right amount of heat and the roe, dried chilli frillies (no, probably not a professionally used term) and toast crumble made for an interesting texture, too. Great saltiness too, as in all the dishes throughout the meal. 

As we were trying to decide on the wines for the mains we were offered a couple of them to try. Kudos for that! Our first two choices had unfortunately ran out so for fish we were torn between Portuguese Douro and Austrian Sylvaner. Owing to its richer aromas, Sylvaner was the one to make the cut, though surprisingly Douro did prove to be a better match for the actual dish. Live and learn. Drink and learn some more.

The choice for the red to go with date's steak was an easy one: next to the soft, round richness of Pian Scorrone's Barbera d'Asti Côtes du Rhône's dryness didn't stand a chance.

Seeing how the date had used his veto (again!) I was left with fish. That night it was fried whitefish with seasonal veggies and delightfully light yet wonderfully citrusy yogurt sauce. A beautifully summery dish indeed. The crunchy carrot flakes were every bit as tasty as they were pretty.

The date's steak was cooked to his liking and Bearnaise was billowy and elegant. I can't remember the last time I've eaten a proper steak. We're fans of sustainable meat-eating and favour offal and slowly braised, lesser used body parts so The Boy Next Door hasn't been treated to one either. And sure enough, there's time and place for that too. Like here. Tonight. Can't argue with that. 

Surprisingly enough, we both courageous carnivores felt that the sides put on the best performance. Truly cooked to perfection with buckets of flavour. 

For dessert wine we were recommended this intricate Italian. The bubbles made for a festive feel, complimented by the aromatic freshness. Molto bene with both our puddings. 

The Boy Next Door chose lemon posset. Another beautifully presented dish with taste and texture that were spot on. Seductively gentle and not too citrusy. Perfectly light, caressing consistency.

And for me... suffice to say that at this point of the intrepidly Instagram-documented evening I had to choice but to bring out the big guns: #foodporn hashtag. Just look at that!

That just might be the most beautiful thing I've ever been presented on a plate. White chocolate mousse wasn't too sweet and left room for the acidity of the red currant (coulis? Gelée? Sauce?), which wasn't tear-inducingly tart either. There were tears (well, almost), but for all the right reasons. 

The dinner was the crowning glory of our wonderful stay. Everything on our plates was like us - full of love. Oh Lord - now I'm making myself sick with all this gooeyness...

A big thanks to our hosts - we couldn't be happier!

*In collaboration with Fiskars Wärdshus*

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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

        

Have a (mini)break - have Fiskars!

Earlier this year a new character made his first appearance on the blog. The character in question is quite a character indeed and became known as The Boy Next Door. The most eagle-eyed of readers immediately picked up and sure enough things too picked up a pace very different from what I'd had in mind. I tried to resist and be the token voice of reason (doesn't come naturally, I can tell you) but that didn't amount to much.

Only a couple of weeks after we'd exchanged our first kiss we found ourselves on a day-trip in Fiskars. It was a grey and rainy day... but I couldn't wipe the smile off my face. Much as I still can't  as I look back on that day: that's the day I fell in love with him. 

We were even planning to marry this summer but in the end had to admit we simply didn't have time to put anything together at such short notice. We didn't want to forgo a little honeymoon though, and so we returned to Fiskars and stayed at that charming Wärdshus I'd already admired back in February.

Founded in 1836 Wärdshus is the oldest inn still in business. Located on the historic King's Road 89 kilometres from Helsinki, Wärdshus has accommodated and entertained many grand historical figures, so we found ourselves in very capable hands.

Since 1998 Wärdshus has been looked after by Patrik Karlsson and his wife Marja. Patrik has honed his culinary skills at Savoy Helsinki and Marja is a hospitality industry professional. Everything at Wärdshus speaks of their love for this place and their role as the guardians of her magnificent traditions. Wärdshus proved to be every bit as delightful as I had envisioned.

The rooms at the original building and the annex have been lovingly restored with appreciation for the old in cooperation with the local arts and crafts people the village of Fiskars is famous for. 

Having first taken out time enjoying our room (where do the hotels source those beds? From heaven?) it was time for the dinner. Both Instagram- and Facebook - followers have been treated to some teasers and the rest of you will be served the whole spread in the next post. 

The restaurant continues the quietly calm, simple and elegant line of the rest of the hotel. This time of the year it's also a popular destination for kräftskiva-revellers. Even the drinking songs were conducted with the utmost grace (quite unlike our Finnish - English- Italian crayfish affair, hosted by a closeted Andalusian, equipped with a very Middle Eastern temper...)

Though especially popular in the summer months, Fiskars is active off-season too and both hotel and the restaurant are open all year round. 

After the dinner it was time for sauna. During our excursion in the village earlier that day we'd discovered the local Rekola Brewery whose beers where available at Wärdshus as well. A cold beer after sauna, as your skin still steams from the warmth in the chilly late August evening turning to dusk... I suddenly found myself very much in touch with all the things it means to be a Finn. 

Later, after the nightfall we went outside to admire the bright starry sky ("There's none of that light pollution here, you see," The Boy Next Door lectured in his Channel 4 news specialist voice), enjoying the sound of crickets (me) and the quietness of the countryside (him). After some shooting-related injuries (and before you even ask: no, he's not a mercenary. That I know of anyway...) he's a bit deaf, you see. 

Oh yes, we were very much at peace. (And a little bit later sound asleep.)

Even if just a mini-break, holidays are clearly good for one. My date, who normally is inherently incapable of anything comprehensible for the first two hours after waking up and (his words...) "unable to issue any kind of statements" before he's had at least a vat of coffee, was up, bright and talking, at 8am. "There's breakfast" he cheered, "there's hotel breakfast!".

The breakfast was very simple though. But, not in a rush to be anywhere, it was lovely to savour those precious moments (and croissants, served with their delicious jams)... and casually try and calculate he earliest possible date for a wedding - I don't wan't to have to wait for our next honeymoon for too long, you know!

*In collaboration with Fiskars Wärdshus*

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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

      

Fabulous Fiskars

Over the weekend we fled the gray and rainy Töölö to... an equally gray and rainy Fiskars, a small village about an hour away that is home to all sorts of artisans and crafters and which this years celebrates its 365th anniversary.

Much like the previous road trip destinations Hanko and Tammisaari, in the summer it too becomes one of those ridiculously cute summer paradises, but there's some magic there off season too.

There's nature...

... such as duck confit in its original form. Loud buggers, I'll tell you that. And much like their cousin Donald, these too have opted out of wearing trousers in public. Tut tut.

There are adorable little shops...

And even more adorable little cafés. Remember Petris Chocolate Room that I gushed over in Töölö? There's one here too!

I mean, cute, right? I can't wait to return here over the summer - for a mini-break in the too-cute-for-its-own-good Fiskars Värdshus...!


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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?