Tea with a Bedouin - chance encounters that make me travel

Traveling is one of my greatest passions in life. The desire to see and explore every corner  of the world is not one of the easiest things to combine with a day job that's currently based in Finland, but even that doesn't seem to stop me from trying.

That first time in a new country is so intoxicating I can only imagine that's how drugs feel like. Everything is new, everything seems possible. Excitement rushes though your veins and energy never seems to dry out. Senses seems to be working overtime, too: colours are more vivid, scents stronger, tastes more powerful. 

I've mostly traveled alone and in countries, where my albino complexion makes me stand out from the local population, ever so clearly marking me as a foreigner. But for some reason places where I'm not at home make me feel just that: at home. Being the outsider and not belonging are roles I feel strangely comfortable with.

New experiences, culinary discoveries, markets, glimpses into the every day life of the locals that tourist guides could never even touch upon... those are all reasons that make me yearn for the next place, the next take-off, the next high. But the most memorable moments are those chance encounters with people. People you'll never see again but who manage to leave an imprint in our heart that will forever stay with you and in your memories. 

One of those I experienced during my latest trip to Israel, in the maze-like alleyways of Jerusalem Old City.

This past year has been tough in so many ways. In addition to the turmoil of my personal life there have also been the challenges of a job I took on last spring; a job that's made me, too, the target of the incomprehensible hatred people harbour on the social media in the security of their anonymity. 

I've had it. With absolutely everything.  I've cried more than ever before. And wondered. Am I really cut out for this? When is too much simply... well, too much? Is it ok to just give up?

At the end of last year I sought refuge in my beloved Middle East. Not that even that would have stopped me and made me slow down: ever the conscientious achiever I stuck to my (far too) ambitious itinerary, even after coming down with bronchitis. I can do it, I'm the man (turned out I'm really not).

After a couple of years away I felt like an outsider there, too, in a way I couldn't even imagine. The unrest, going on since October only made me even more confused. I felt I no longer could understand anything: not my own life, let alone the world. I felt so lost in both. I had an endless supply of questions, yet no answers to any of them. Where to now? What was I doing here either? Is this what it's always going to be like - the cities and countries changing around me, yet me always staying the same; always alone?

Even a trip to Wailing Wall didn't offer me the solace I so painfully needed. As I stared at the bricks that had heard peoples's need and anguish for centuries and centuries I couldn't make the words to arrange themselves in my head to form even the most elementary cry for help.

Instead I continued aimlessly wondering through the Old City until I reached a crossing unable to decide which way to go. An old man met my frozen gaze and motioned me over. He took my arm, sat me down and gently said "the sadness will eventually pass, you know? Trust me". 

Then he disappeared, only to re-emerge a little while later with a pot of mint tea. As he poured that into little glasses he'd set in front of us he examined me carefully. "You're used to having to be strong and tough. You wear your face like a mask - never letting people in. You won't show your emotions and even now I can't quite read you".

"I'm fine", I protested, gluing an almost believable smile on my face the way I'm so used to. "It's ok", he reassured. "You don't need to be ok with everything. And you really need to show yourself some more mercy, you know. You will be fine, eventually. As long as you just learn to have faith in yourself". 

The totally unexpected gesture from the old Bedouin and all his kind words couldn't have come at a better time. The walls inside me, about to crumble for so long, finally started cracking in a way I no longer could put  back together. I tried to fight my fogging eyes and desperately fix them on something and stop what I knew was coming. 

"It's fine", he consoled. "You don't need to talk if you don't want to". And for the life of me, I wouldn't have been able to, either. And there, in front of a complete stranger, halfway across the planet, surrounded by fear and confusion I broke down and let the tears come. 

"We're both strangers in a foreign land", the man remarked as he gazed through the window into the distance. "I'm a Bedouin. This is not where my roots are. These are not my people". 

"Some people are simply not good for you", he continued, weighing his words carefully. "They will eat up your energy and leave you with nothing. And you'll wither. But there are other kind of people out there , too. The ones who'll shine on you like the sun. They will help you grow and flourish and it's because of them you'll have some light to give others as well. You have them, too, in your life", he reminded. "You're not alone".

And he was right. I'm not. And neither is any of us. Let's accept that light. And be that onto others, too. 

___________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

      

SHARING IS CARING!

Tips for travelling in Israel

This blog post should tell you everything you could possibly want to know about travelling in Israel. But, in case something's missing, please drop a comment and I'll make sure to add it!

Security:

Check your Foreign office's instructions, though if they're anything like Finland's, they'll tell you to avoid markets, cafes, cinemas and public transport which means you'd miss out on so much of the fun. So, use your own judgment. Just remember that as a foreigner you do stand out and oddly enough that means you'd make a bad target for any terror attack as far as both sides are concerned - that sort of PR would be very very bad for them. 

Check your insurance policy, too. Israel (and West Bank) should be ok, but Gaza might be a different story and at least warrant some sort of an additional insurance. Though, you wouldn't get into Gaza if you tried, so...

Vaccinations:

Again, check your own country's recommendations, but no out-of-the-ordinary vaccinations should be needed. If traveling in summer though, you must remember it is hot. And I mean, Dante's Hell sort of hot, so don't even think of about foregoing the sunscreen. Trust me on this one: one summer I burnt my scalp so badly there are parts of my forehead that still don't move (great savings on Botox to look forward to, then!). 

Another thing that you should keep in mind when traveling on the coast, is that summer is the season for jelly fish. You see the locals lugging them away from the sea and the biggest ones I've seen were nearly half a metre in diameter. While not dangerous, they are bitchy little buggers. The marks they've left on people make their victims look like a member of self-flogging Opus Dei who's just had a run-in with Freddy Krueger. The actual encounter (should you ever have one) is not really too bad - there's a nasty burning sensation but it'll all be over soon. 

Arriving in the country:

No matter which airline I've used (and I've used a lot of them...), my flight always seem to arrive at 3am which is not a time when anyone's at their best. Not me or the passport control...

The entry procedure into the country has gone through some changes over the past years and the traveler no longer gets his/ her passport stamped, which is a welcome change in case you intend to travel in the region in the future, too. With a passport bearing an Israeli stamp you can only enter Jordan and Egypt which are the only two countries Israel has a formal peace treaty in place with. 

In stead of a stamp you'll get a blue slip which is checked as you exit the country. The slip allows you to stay in the country for three months. As you enter, the border officials will inquire about the purpose of your trip, the length of it and any itinerary you might have. The longer the planned trip, the more questions it warrants. The more exotic your name (read: the more Arab your name...), the more questions it warrants. The more stamps from obscure Israel-bashing Arab countries in your passport, the more questions it warrants. 

In case you're even toying with the idea of exploring the Palestinian territories, this is not a good moment to disclose it. Otherwise your trip might end before it's even started and you'll find yourself on in the waiting room. interrogation room, detention centre and on the next flight home.

The airport - how to get there and away from there:

Baruch ha - ba! Welcome! So you made it in, then! Depending on the day of your arrival, you might be able to use the most convenient way into and out of Ben Gurion: the train. There's a train about every 30 mins and it'll get you to the centre of Tel Aviv in approximately 20 minutes. The ticket costs 13,5 NIS (a little under €3). For more information and schedules, please see here. 

The train does not operate between midnight and 3am or during the Shabbat. Those times you'll have to take a taxi, the stand for which you'll find in front of the Terminal 3. Taxi to Tel Aviv costs 130 NIS (a little under €30), from Tel Aviv to Ben Gurion the fare is 110 NIS (about €23).

In case you're headed for Jerusalem, use Nesher.

Getting around:

Renting a car is obviously the easiest way of getting around and exploring even the most random corners, but you'll get by without it too, as public transport in Israel is very well organized. You can get from city to city using either trains, buses or sherut, shared taxis. 

Of the intercity buses Egged is the biggest. For timetables and fares, see here. This website lists all the other bus companies too, though it's bound to make for a confusing read for someone not proficient in every little junction. Like me. 

Sheruts are quicker than the buses. You'll catch one at a sherut station, which are usually (like in Tel aviv) located in the vicinity of bus stations. In Jerusalem you'll find the sherut station behind the houses across Jaffa street, opposite to Zion square. 

The sign on the windshield tells you the destination of each sherut. The driver takes off as soon as all the seats in the 10-seater minivan are taken and unlike in buses, you can get off anywhere you like. Unlike buses, sheruts between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv aso operate on Shabbat, during which the price is slightly higher.

sheruts also operate within cities, following the most popular bus routes. The number on the windshield tells you which one. The fare is the same as in buses, depending on the city 5-6 NIS (roughly €1). 

In case you use public transport (and same routes) a lot, you might want to look into getting a Rav Kav smart card, which makes traveling more convenient and cheaper, too. 

The more remote the place, the less frequent the bus services are and to some there only might be a couple a day. That is when you'll have to resort to taxi. Ooh, the taxi drivers....They're not terribly keen on those meters in their cars so you'll probably have to negotiate the price beforehand. Well, it's really not much of a negotiation as it is extortion. In the middle of it all the driver suddenly decides he doesn't speak English after all and whips out a ridiculous price for an 8-minute journey... which you really can't afford not to accept either. Though you will also get the best possible Yiddish lesson on the meaning of "chutzpah"...

There's a new sheriff in town, though: Gett-taxis which apparently are actually regulated by rules. Or common decency. 

Language:

The official language is Hebrew, which I firmly believe is the sexiest language in the world (I'm also painfully aware of how alone I am with this...). In Arab cities and villages Arab is spoken. English is widely spoken, though (unless you're trying to haggle with a taxi driver, that is...), especially among the younger generation. 

Street names and other signs are commonly written also in English, though disappointingly many website (for instance restaurants and the above mentioned Gett) are only available in Hebrew. Thank the Lord for Google Translate, then!

Majoitus:

There are hostels, hotels, guest houses and inns to cater for every budget. In case yours is on the smaller size or you're taking the roads less traveled, you might benefit from this hostel data base. 

In some hotels Shabbat (which only ends Saturday evening) might prove to be problem in case you wish to check out on Saturday and some refuse to accept bookings for Fri-Sat night alone, so keep this in mind when booking a hotel.

Voltage in Israel is the same as in Europe (220V).

Shabbat:

Shabbat starts on Friday evening and finishes 25 hours later. During this time there's no public transportation and the only way to get around is to surrender to the bottomless greed of the taxi drivers. 

Leisurely strolls are a popular pastime on Shabbat, but be careful with your destination. The more religious the neighbourhood, the mroe you should pay attention to your dress code and behaviour. Cover up, don't take photographs and avoid smoking and using your phone. In case you do want to get a glimpse of Israel at its most religious, visit Mea Shearim in Jerusalem or Bnei Brak in Tel Aviv. 

For the ultimate Shabbat experience, make your way to the Wailing Wall. After the prayers, look up Jeff Seidel, a cowboy hat-wearing local legend, whose indefatigable efforts make sure no-one is left alone on this holy day. He coordinates a programme which sees local families opening their homes to total strangers, sometimes tens of them at a time.  

Kosher:

Kosher refers to the dietary requirements dictated by Jewish law. This means that dairy and meat are never consumed together and thus kosher restaurants are either halavi (serving dairy and fish) or bashari (meat restaurants with no cream, butter or cheese anywhere on the menu). Pork and shellfish are trefa (forbidden under any circumstances) and don't feature on the menus of either. 

Most of the large hotels are kosher, which means breakfast is halavi (with often a mind-boggling array of pickled fish- yeiiiiii!) as sometimes is the lunch. Dinner is bashari.

In case breakfast is available at hostels or smaller hotels, it's usually vegetarian, too. That means bread, jam, eggs, saladss, olives... and hummus, of course. 

Restaurants:

More and more (non-kosher) restaurants are open during Shabbat, too, as are some of the smaller shops and kiosks.

For more on Israel as a foodie destination and my restaurant recommendations, see my earlier post. 

Tipping is common practice, though Israelis rarely leave more than 10%.

Traveling to West Bank:

You can enter West Bank directly from Allenby Bridge crossing from Jordaninan side, too, but in that case your passport will be hit with a stamp that will prevent you from travelling to Israel. Should you still wish to do so, here are instructions on crossing the border. 

When travelling to West Bank from Israel, you have several options. From Jerusalem you'll get to Betlehem via Checkpoint 300, to Hebron you can get a direct servis (Palestinian equivalent of sherut) at the Damascus Gate and just a block away, across the street from Jerusalem Hotel, there's a bus station where rest of the West Bank-bound buses depart. 

For foreigners the checkpoints are open 24/7 and no permit is needed.

The grand exit:

Ah. This is where it all really gets fun. You might have thought that being told to be at the airport at least three hours prior to your flight was excessive. You'd be wrong. Leaving the country is about a million times harder than entering it. Do yoga, meditate, pop a couple of Valiums or all three - rust me, you'll need them.

The first person you'll encounter will ask for
- your name
- your passport
- the correct pronunciation of your name
- whether anybody else in your family speaks Hebrew
- why you travel so extensively in Israel
- whether your Grandma speaks Yiddish..

... over and over again in different variations. 

Yes, I know, I know. Security - that magic word you'll get as the response to every single one of your questions all the time. But surely Israel should be happy about people who keep on coming back, every time dropping more money that they can afford? 

PS. In case you did make that trip to West Bank, you might not want to disclose it now either (or you'll risk either intense questioning or ban from entering Israel for the next 10 years. Or both.)

You might get yet another person asking you the same questions, too. At some point you'll get a rating (1-6) which determines your treatment from then onwards, Those traveling as a part of a group are routinely given 2 and they're probably even left with enough time to enjoy the airport. Wouldn't know - at worse I was slapped with a 5 and wound up in that tiny room with 2 female officers pulling on rubber gloves. 

Another time every single item in my suitcase was rummaged through with inexplicable attention to detail. Including a bottle  of nail varnish remover which unfortunately wasn't closed with similar attention to detail and ended up leaking and ruining my one-of-a-kind Longchamp handbag. 

Then there was the time when I learnt that Jesus sandals I'd bought in Jerusalem Old City could not travel on the same flight home with me. Yep, you guessed it: security reasons...

This time I was stuck at the waiting area after the x-ray machine. Again, with no explanation given. This is part of the guards' charm: they're all seemingly nice and polite, but they have turned not really saying anything into an art form. Nor do they welcome any questions on your behalf. I'm sure they're doing a very important job, but I'm equally sure  their cold and condescending demeanour is part of their need to assert their authority and make you feel like crap. The treatment is humiliating and infuriating and leaves you swearing never to return.  

After all my belongings had been gone through several times, I was finally explained that "somewhere out there there was something alarming". After being marched through the x-ray for the third time, they apparently found the culprit: a star of David necklace I was wearing underneath my clothes. Yeah, can't think of anything more threatening to the State of Israel...

You should also know that based on how suspicious you're considered, you might also be asked (well, demanded, really) to show the content of your camera or hand out passwords to access your computer or social media feeds. Either upon arrival or departure. 

Ok, so that doesn't really make Israel sound like a worth the hassle... or does it? Do you guys have even more frustrating stories to share from airports around the world?

___________________


ANYONE FOR SECONDS?



      

SHARING IS CARING!

Foodie traveller's Israel - where to go, where to eat

In spite of all the recent heavy thoughts Israel is a great destination for a number of reasons. It has something in store for everyone. Whether you're after a beach holiday or political tourism; whether you're a history buff or a pilgrim, Israel's got you covered. No matter what the purpose of your trip is, you'll still have to eat and for that Israel is nothing short of spectacular.

There are restaurant for all needs and budgets and the quality and quantity of non-kosher restaurants, too, just keeps growing. Customer service in this country used to be appalling: restaurants had successfully adopted the American tipping culture and were known for their occasionally rather aggressive ways of pointing this out to their customers, too. One thing they had failed to understand, however, was the fact that tipping is a reward for a job well done. 

Last years have brought in a welcome change and I could hardly believe I was in the same country.

Vegetarians are well looked after - veganism is on a massive rise. In that wonderfully Mediterranean way the diet revolves around veggies. There's an abundance of fresh fruit and you should definitely start your day in one of the juice bars there are in practically every street corner.

A common practice in restaurants is a selection of salads, which is a collection of salads, pickles and spreads. On its own it costs about 50 NIS (roughly €10) and with a main course you'll get it for half the price. The selection can include up to 20 different varieties and they keep topping them up until you finally realize to say no (or explode).

Jaffa

The area around Old Port is full of charming little fish restaurants overlooking the sea. The promenade is a great destination especially for a weekend brunch (and a cocktail or three) -  you should definitely try  Container.

Just a couple of doors down on that same promenade there's a local classic: Old man and the sea. Their selection of salads is among the best there is, but should you manage to squeeze in something more, go giddy with their seafood, washed down with some local Riesling.

For a slightly smaller hunger (or budget) you can also get your fix directly from the fishmongers at the port. It doesn't get fresher than this!

The area around Jaffa Fleamarket is also home to a whole host of trendy restaurants. The lively streets around it make for a very entertaining night that continues well into the following morning...!

 

If your ears are up for the ridiculously loud music (so this is what middle age feels like..!), head over to Fleamarket for a great dinner.

If you want to sample traditional Arab treats, head over to Haj Kahil, located at the roundabout in the centre of Old Jaffa. It's not quite as good as it used to be, but good nonetheless. Meat dishes, especially the stuffed lamb shoulder are particularly good.

Jaffa and Abu Hassan (also known as Ali Karavan) is also where, according to many, the best hummus in the world comes from. In case shakshuka is your choice of drug, you shouldn't miss Dr Shakshuka, located in a cosy courtyard in the fleamarket district.

Tel Aviv

Tel Aviv is located right next to Jaffa and is The Destination for a foodie tourist in Israel. The neighbourhood of Neve Zedek sits between these two cities and hosts more adorable little shops and cafes than you'd know what to do with. The best ice cream in the city comes from Gelateria Anita and it is downright impossible to try and pick your favourite. Well, not entirely true: of course it's Crema Catalana!

 

Carmel market is a great place to kick off your foodie tour of Tel Aviv. 

In addition to the lively atmosphere, the area is also home to several nice restaurants. My firm favourite year after year is Cafe Bialik, which won me over with its bohemian atmosphere and merguez shakshuka.

One local secret that you won't stumble upon by accident is this Yemenite soup place on Yichye Kapach street, hidden in the back of the market. Cheap and oh, so cheerful!

Another market worth checking out in Tel Aviv is Sarona Market, the largest indoor market in the country and home to all things culinary goodness. 

In case you can't squeeze Jaffa into your itinerary, they have Abu Hassan here, too.

 

If you're feeling hungry, head over to this sandwich shop by the winner of American Sweet Genius contest...

 ... or Claro, with its laid back ambiance, excellent food, reasonable prices and great wine menu.

And winelovers should definitely make time for a trip (or a day) at Tasting Room, where you can take your time sampling their wines before settling on which to buy.

The park surrounding Sarona is full of all sorts of nice things, too - at Little Italy, for instance, you can get everything you need for a romantic picnic.

Levinski street is home to the Tel Aviv spice market.

 

Miznon has several locations now (one at 21, Ibn Gabirol street and another at 30, King George street) and are behind the gourmet street food revolution.Their dreamily fluffy pita bread comes with amazing stuff (minute steak? Seafood?) and an array of fantastic home-made sauces. They take the Israelis; love of pita bread to a level that borders on obsession, though: even desserts come inside a pita...

,

A one-stop-shop for all the classics of Jewish cuisine you fell in love with watching Woody Allen films and never quite could learn to pronounce, is Keton Jewish Bistro on Dizengof street. Kreplach, tzimmes, gefilte fish, cholent galore... oy, vey.  

Messages left on the walls tell how much people love this local institution, open since 1945.

For a more modern take on Middle Eastern food (and excellent wine and cocktail lists!)  and wonderfully welcoming staff, there's Night Kitchen on Lilienblum street. Yes, that's octopus. Can't get enough of octopus, me...

My favourite of the restaurants in Tel Aviv would have to be this: The Local on Ibn Gabirol street. Their modern and fresh take on local culinary traditions has made them wildly popular and no wonder: everything here works. Their smoky aubergine pure alone is so good you should book that table now. 

Best time to come is weekend, when The Local, along with many others, have a reduced price weekend menu.

Jerusalem

In Jerusalem you want to lose yourself in the hustle and bustle of Machane Yehuda market. A great way to sample the selection is Shuk Bites ticket (99 NIS = roughly €20).

The amazing bakeries are guaranteed to keep carbohydrate deficiency (or dreams of ever fitting into that bikini...) at bay.

Of the many, many interesting restaurants around the market the one you should not miss is Machne Yuda, where I took you already earlier.

If your craving some serious comfort food just the way your mama used to make, you want Ima, a restaurant specialized in Kurdish Jewish home cooking. Their forte is kubbe soups, but maqluba pales in comparison to my Palestinian mamas' version.

The ethnic diversity of the population of Israel makes for a great opportunity to sample most exotic cuisines. Jerusalem Old City for instance is home to several Armenian restaurants. My recommendation is Nafoura (which you should check out for their terrace overlooking the Old City alone!)

And seeing how we are in the holiest city of the holiest country on the planet, you should make time for Eucalyptus, which draws its inspiration from the dishes made and inggredients used in Old Testament. Quality is superb, but the tasting menus are still reasonably priced:  Song of songs will only set you back 217 NIS ( about 45€) and 350 NIS (less than €75) will get you a table at the Feast of Queen of Sheba.

Nazareth

Most of the restaurants in Nazareth are located around St. Gabriel's square. Bayat is a laid-back bar with good food and friendly service and their smoked duck pastrami is just the cure for any bacon withdrawal symptoms you might be experiencing.

Just around the corner there's Canary, and their superb meze feast (stuffed spleen, anyone?) and selection of Israeli boutique wines. 

Akko

Located in the heart of Akko old city, tucked away in the courtyard of Khan Ashawarda, there's El Burj, specialized in fish and seafood (or, as the mother of the family who runs the place did, in her charmingly broken English put it, "the fruits of the sea".) Located in a lovingly restaured old town house (worth a visit in itself) which clearly is its owner's pride and joy. 

And hey - Israel has some serious treats in store for a winelover, too. Most wineries are located in the northern part of the country: in Carmiel and in Golan. I managed to squeeze in two good ones: Tishbi and Stern. Many more were left for the next trips...!

How about that! So, any of you toying with the idea of a trip to Israel yet?

___________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

   

    

                                                               CARING IS SHARING!