Tips for travelling in Israel

This blog post should tell you everything you could possibly want to know about travelling in Israel. But, in case something's missing, please drop a comment and I'll make sure to add it!

Security:

Check your Foreign office's instructions, though if they're anything like Finland's, they'll tell you to avoid markets, cafes, cinemas and public transport which means you'd miss out on so much of the fun. So, use your own judgment. Just remember that as a foreigner you do stand out and oddly enough that means you'd make a bad target for any terror attack as far as both sides are concerned - that sort of PR would be very very bad for them. 

Check your insurance policy, too. Israel (and West Bank) should be ok, but Gaza might be a different story and at least warrant some sort of an additional insurance. Though, you wouldn't get into Gaza if you tried, so...

Vaccinations:

Again, check your own country's recommendations, but no out-of-the-ordinary vaccinations should be needed. If traveling in summer though, you must remember it is hot. And I mean, Dante's Hell sort of hot, so don't even think of about foregoing the sunscreen. Trust me on this one: one summer I burnt my scalp so badly there are parts of my forehead that still don't move (great savings on Botox to look forward to, then!). 

Another thing that you should keep in mind when traveling on the coast, is that summer is the season for jelly fish. You see the locals lugging them away from the sea and the biggest ones I've seen were nearly half a metre in diameter. While not dangerous, they are bitchy little buggers. The marks they've left on people make their victims look like a member of self-flogging Opus Dei who's just had a run-in with Freddy Krueger. The actual encounter (should you ever have one) is not really too bad - there's a nasty burning sensation but it'll all be over soon. 

Arriving in the country:

No matter which airline I've used (and I've used a lot of them...), my flight always seem to arrive at 3am which is not a time when anyone's at their best. Not me or the passport control...

The entry procedure into the country has gone through some changes over the past years and the traveler no longer gets his/ her passport stamped, which is a welcome change in case you intend to travel in the region in the future, too. With a passport bearing an Israeli stamp you can only enter Jordan and Egypt which are the only two countries Israel has a formal peace treaty in place with. 

In stead of a stamp you'll get a blue slip which is checked as you exit the country. The slip allows you to stay in the country for three months. As you enter, the border officials will inquire about the purpose of your trip, the length of it and any itinerary you might have. The longer the planned trip, the more questions it warrants. The more exotic your name (read: the more Arab your name...), the more questions it warrants. The more stamps from obscure Israel-bashing Arab countries in your passport, the more questions it warrants. 

In case you're even toying with the idea of exploring the Palestinian territories, this is not a good moment to disclose it. Otherwise your trip might end before it's even started and you'll find yourself on in the waiting room. interrogation room, detention centre and on the next flight home.

The airport - how to get there and away from there:

Baruch ha - ba! Welcome! So you made it in, then! Depending on the day of your arrival, you might be able to use the most convenient way into and out of Ben Gurion: the train. There's a train about every 30 mins and it'll get you to the centre of Tel Aviv in approximately 20 minutes. The ticket costs 13,5 NIS (a little under €3). For more information and schedules, please see here. 

The train does not operate between midnight and 3am or during the Shabbat. Those times you'll have to take a taxi, the stand for which you'll find in front of the Terminal 3. Taxi to Tel Aviv costs 130 NIS (a little under €30), from Tel Aviv to Ben Gurion the fare is 110 NIS (about €23).

In case you're headed for Jerusalem, use Nesher.

Getting around:

Renting a car is obviously the easiest way of getting around and exploring even the most random corners, but you'll get by without it too, as public transport in Israel is very well organized. You can get from city to city using either trains, buses or sherut, shared taxis. 

Of the intercity buses Egged is the biggest. For timetables and fares, see here. This website lists all the other bus companies too, though it's bound to make for a confusing read for someone not proficient in every little junction. Like me. 

Sheruts are quicker than the buses. You'll catch one at a sherut station, which are usually (like in Tel aviv) located in the vicinity of bus stations. In Jerusalem you'll find the sherut station behind the houses across Jaffa street, opposite to Zion square. 

The sign on the windshield tells you the destination of each sherut. The driver takes off as soon as all the seats in the 10-seater minivan are taken and unlike in buses, you can get off anywhere you like. Unlike buses, sheruts between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv aso operate on Shabbat, during which the price is slightly higher.

sheruts also operate within cities, following the most popular bus routes. The number on the windshield tells you which one. The fare is the same as in buses, depending on the city 5-6 NIS (roughly €1). 

In case you use public transport (and same routes) a lot, you might want to look into getting a Rav Kav smart card, which makes traveling more convenient and cheaper, too. 

The more remote the place, the less frequent the bus services are and to some there only might be a couple a day. That is when you'll have to resort to taxi. Ooh, the taxi drivers....They're not terribly keen on those meters in their cars so you'll probably have to negotiate the price beforehand. Well, it's really not much of a negotiation as it is extortion. In the middle of it all the driver suddenly decides he doesn't speak English after all and whips out a ridiculous price for an 8-minute journey... which you really can't afford not to accept either. Though you will also get the best possible Yiddish lesson on the meaning of "chutzpah"...

There's a new sheriff in town, though: Gett-taxis which apparently are actually regulated by rules. Or common decency. 

Language:

The official language is Hebrew, which I firmly believe is the sexiest language in the world (I'm also painfully aware of how alone I am with this...). In Arab cities and villages Arab is spoken. English is widely spoken, though (unless you're trying to haggle with a taxi driver, that is...), especially among the younger generation. 

Street names and other signs are commonly written also in English, though disappointingly many website (for instance restaurants and the above mentioned Gett) are only available in Hebrew. Thank the Lord for Google Translate, then!

Majoitus:

There are hostels, hotels, guest houses and inns to cater for every budget. In case yours is on the smaller size or you're taking the roads less traveled, you might benefit from this hostel data base. 

In some hotels Shabbat (which only ends Saturday evening) might prove to be problem in case you wish to check out on Saturday and some refuse to accept bookings for Fri-Sat night alone, so keep this in mind when booking a hotel.

Voltage in Israel is the same as in Europe (220V).

Shabbat:

Shabbat starts on Friday evening and finishes 25 hours later. During this time there's no public transportation and the only way to get around is to surrender to the bottomless greed of the taxi drivers. 

Leisurely strolls are a popular pastime on Shabbat, but be careful with your destination. The more religious the neighbourhood, the mroe you should pay attention to your dress code and behaviour. Cover up, don't take photographs and avoid smoking and using your phone. In case you do want to get a glimpse of Israel at its most religious, visit Mea Shearim in Jerusalem or Bnei Brak in Tel Aviv. 

For the ultimate Shabbat experience, make your way to the Wailing Wall. After the prayers, look up Jeff Seidel, a cowboy hat-wearing local legend, whose indefatigable efforts make sure no-one is left alone on this holy day. He coordinates a programme which sees local families opening their homes to total strangers, sometimes tens of them at a time.  

Kosher:

Kosher refers to the dietary requirements dictated by Jewish law. This means that dairy and meat are never consumed together and thus kosher restaurants are either halavi (serving dairy and fish) or bashari (meat restaurants with no cream, butter or cheese anywhere on the menu). Pork and shellfish are trefa (forbidden under any circumstances) and don't feature on the menus of either. 

Most of the large hotels are kosher, which means breakfast is halavi (with often a mind-boggling array of pickled fish- yeiiiiii!) as sometimes is the lunch. Dinner is bashari.

In case breakfast is available at hostels or smaller hotels, it's usually vegetarian, too. That means bread, jam, eggs, saladss, olives... and hummus, of course. 

Restaurants:

More and more (non-kosher) restaurants are open during Shabbat, too, as are some of the smaller shops and kiosks.

For more on Israel as a foodie destination and my restaurant recommendations, see my earlier post. 

Tipping is common practice, though Israelis rarely leave more than 10%.

Traveling to West Bank:

You can enter West Bank directly from Allenby Bridge crossing from Jordaninan side, too, but in that case your passport will be hit with a stamp that will prevent you from travelling to Israel. Should you still wish to do so, here are instructions on crossing the border. 

When travelling to West Bank from Israel, you have several options. From Jerusalem you'll get to Betlehem via Checkpoint 300, to Hebron you can get a direct servis (Palestinian equivalent of sherut) at the Damascus Gate and just a block away, across the street from Jerusalem Hotel, there's a bus station where rest of the West Bank-bound buses depart. 

For foreigners the checkpoints are open 24/7 and no permit is needed.

The grand exit:

Ah. This is where it all really gets fun. You might have thought that being told to be at the airport at least three hours prior to your flight was excessive. You'd be wrong. Leaving the country is about a million times harder than entering it. Do yoga, meditate, pop a couple of Valiums or all three - rust me, you'll need them.

The first person you'll encounter will ask for
- your name
- your passport
- the correct pronunciation of your name
- whether anybody else in your family speaks Hebrew
- why you travel so extensively in Israel
- whether your Grandma speaks Yiddish..

... over and over again in different variations. 

Yes, I know, I know. Security - that magic word you'll get as the response to every single one of your questions all the time. But surely Israel should be happy about people who keep on coming back, every time dropping more money that they can afford? 

PS. In case you did make that trip to West Bank, you might not want to disclose it now either (or you'll risk either intense questioning or ban from entering Israel for the next 10 years. Or both.)

You might get yet another person asking you the same questions, too. At some point you'll get a rating (1-6) which determines your treatment from then onwards, Those traveling as a part of a group are routinely given 2 and they're probably even left with enough time to enjoy the airport. Wouldn't know - at worse I was slapped with a 5 and wound up in that tiny room with 2 female officers pulling on rubber gloves. 

Another time every single item in my suitcase was rummaged through with inexplicable attention to detail. Including a bottle  of nail varnish remover which unfortunately wasn't closed with similar attention to detail and ended up leaking and ruining my one-of-a-kind Longchamp handbag. 

Then there was the time when I learnt that Jesus sandals I'd bought in Jerusalem Old City could not travel on the same flight home with me. Yep, you guessed it: security reasons...

This time I was stuck at the waiting area after the x-ray machine. Again, with no explanation given. This is part of the guards' charm: they're all seemingly nice and polite, but they have turned not really saying anything into an art form. Nor do they welcome any questions on your behalf. I'm sure they're doing a very important job, but I'm equally sure  their cold and condescending demeanour is part of their need to assert their authority and make you feel like crap. The treatment is humiliating and infuriating and leaves you swearing never to return.  

After all my belongings had been gone through several times, I was finally explained that "somewhere out there there was something alarming". After being marched through the x-ray for the third time, they apparently found the culprit: a star of David necklace I was wearing underneath my clothes. Yeah, can't think of anything more threatening to the State of Israel...

You should also know that based on how suspicious you're considered, you might also be asked (well, demanded, really) to show the content of your camera or hand out passwords to access your computer or social media feeds. Either upon arrival or departure. 

Ok, so that doesn't really make Israel sound like a worth the hassle... or does it? Do you guys have even more frustrating stories to share from airports around the world?

___________________


ANYONE FOR SECONDS?



      

SHARING IS CARING!

When is it time to choose one's side - can a travel blogger ever just be a bystander?

I returned from West Bank feeling every bit as conflicted as did before leaving Israel.

This statement, located in East Jerusalem tells something about how bad the situation is. So did a scene I witnessed as I was waiting, tired, frustrated and angry, for a tram to take me to the centre of Jerusalem and off to Tel Aviv and saw guards stop a random Palestinian guy for an ID check and body search across the road. 

The presence of police, border patrol and security guards in Israel and West Bank is heavier than before, which is hardly a wonder - so is the frequency of the attacks on the Israeli side. 

The situation for the Palestinians is suffocating and not even people wiser than me have been able to come up with a solution. What is there for the Palestinians to do? What are they left with? Let's face it: Israel is not going to discontinue the occupation without some form of resistance and internal and external pressure, are they?

One thing is clear, though: the stabbings and suicide bombers are not going to benefit anyone. Those acts of violence only play straight into Israel's hands, reinforcing their views about how all the Palestinians are out there to get them. 

Those couple of dozens assaults do not enjoy the unequivocal support of most of the Palestinians either. They perpetrators are the only ones getting off lightly: they'll get shot and that's it - khalas. They're not the one s who'll need to live with the consequences and the situation only getting worse for everyone else still left behind.

"They're only kids", said one of my friends. "They don't know what they're doing. If only there weren't those who praise these cowardly acts as heroic and celebrate them as martyrs". 

"Politically motivated acts my ass", said another. "It's just a suicide they wouldn't have been allowed to commit on their own". 

So, why travel on a conflict zone? To learn putting things into perspective? Gratitude? 

If a country's commitment to upholding human rights would be the pre-requisite when choosing the travel destination, that would rule out many interesting countries: China among them. Most of Middle East as well. Many, many countries in Africa. And of course my ultimate, if elusive dream: the Shangri La that is (according to their leaders) North Korea. 

At which point is boycotting a country justified? Is there a clear watershed moment for deciding that? Or is it just a judgment we all have to individually make? Israel Palestine conflict is often compared to the apartheid era South Africa and so many of the tools being offered to solve the situation, such as boycott, hail from there, too. 

One thing that makes reaching any kind of an informed decision is all the conflicts within each person. I would not wish to use my money to support Russia's tourism or economy, yet I still find myself doing the very thing with Israel.

"Hebron is ours"

Can one travel in this kind of places and just remain a silent bystander? Is it possible?Something one should strive for? Or something to avoid at all cost?

At which point does it become necessary to choose one's side and stick with it? Stand up for it even? The easiest option is of course to blindly believe just one side's narrative and the reasoning and explanations behind that demonize the other party, but is that really the sustainable way to go? Is it better to just avoid confusing oneself in the endless and ever so frustrating quest of truth or strive for that? In order to gain and possibly even share the first hand information and stories one's witnessed?

I've spent years trying to figure the conflict out: through my studies, my work, my volunteer work and advocacy. Yet I keep on having me questions than I have answers.

I definitely want the state of Israel to continue existing - does that make me a Zionist? I would, however, classify myself as a supporter of the two state solution - does that make me a racist?

I believe Palestinian state to bring peace to the region; peace Israel so deserves, yet I can't see how that could happen considering the territory has been divided into two plots of land with no access in between.

I whole-heartedly understand my Palestinian friends' yearning for freedom, yet can't agree with the signs and chants I hear in every single demonstration about Free Palestine from River to Sea as that is a scenario in which there's no Israel whatsoever.

This is not a conflict between two equals, which is why any kind of half-hearted attempt to write it off as a situation where "both have wronged" is simply not tenable. Palestinians are the categoric underdog as far as any resources are concerned. Israel's situation is, however, far from easy, too.

The Gaza disengagement of 2005 did not welcome era of peace: instead the number of rockets fired from this Hamas-controlled area went through the roof. I have visited the town of Sderot located right next to Gaza strip and I can tell there the closest bomb shelter is always only seconds away. Even at the playground.

Other countries in the region don't exactly contribute to the safety, either. there's Iran, whose entire foreign policy seems to rely on open calls to destruct Israel and theories of Zionist conspiracies, each more absurd then the next.

Then there's the unrest going on elsewhere in the region. Just a couple of weeks after I came back, a cafe in Tel Aviv was attacked by a man shouting slogans declaring his support to ISIS. 

"Death to the arabs"

Israel likes to advertize itself as the only democracy in Middle East. In many ways things there are infinitely better than in the surrounding countries but its treatment of those who disagree with its views doesn't make it a prime example of democracy.

When I was living in Hebron, I was part of a delegation consisting, among other people, female Nobel Peace prize laureates, one of whom had not even been let into Israel because of her vocal opinions. A more recent example is the way Israel has banned Swedish Foreign Minister.

It is just as clear that many of the problems in the Palestinian territories have absolutely nothing to do with the occupation-no matter how the black humour of its people would have it. "ooh, how my head hurts today - it must be the occupation". "I overslept and missed the bus to work - I blame the occupation". 

Honour-based violence and killings are one of these issues. Owing to the secrecy that shrouds the phenomenon there are no exact statistics but it is estimated that at least 10 honour killings take place in West Bank alone annually.  Death listed in the District Attorney's files as "suspicious" however mean, that the accurate number is likely to be several times that. 

Another thing that makes navigating the situation even more challenging is the need to question and second guess everything you hear being passed as a fact. As is the case in Arab territories, people talk. A lot. But not all of the gossip can be believed.

One example of this is story I heard in a training before being moved to Hebron.  Because of the road blocks, checkpoint and delays that restrict the freedom of movement for the Palestinians, a pregnant mother hadn't made it to the hospital on time and was forced to give birth behind one of the checkpoints. The child was mentally handicapped - something the public opinion blamed on the Israeli army, of course. Thea real culprit? The fact that the parents were first cousins. 

In Hebron I witnessed a Palestinian youth being caught at a checkpoint trying to smuggle in a hand grenade. As soon as the story got out, we were flooded with calls from our Palestinian contacts denying such incident had ever taken place and accusing the occupation forces for lying. All this even after we told them we were there to see it all.

So many questions. Not enough answers.

A very black sense of humour has proved to be a useful coping mechanism, but I suspect even that will go so far. "You sure about this?" a friend of mine asked as we were making our way to a restaurant for a lunch. "They do have all those knives in there and I am Palestinian after all!"

The situation that's gone on for decades has left people on both sides defeated and deflated. In conversations I have in Israel I might not even tell where I'm off to next. "So, how's the situation...?" starts the conversation that we never finish anymore; sentences that are left hanging in the air, pregnant and so, poignant. 

The conversation in the Palestinian territories dies out, too before reaching its end. Words stop, gazes stare into emptiness and hands rise into a powerless shrug. "I don't know... not anymore", they whisper. 

And nor do I. 

* Blasting off my iPod right now: Journey: Don't stop believing *

__________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

      

CARING IS SHARING!

Betlehem, West Banksy - will this wall ever fall?

Betlehem, West Bank. Unless you're a hardcore Christian travelling in the footsteps of Jesus, this town doesn't really offer much.

Located next to Jerusalem it does offer a chance to explore one of the most tangible symbols of the Middle Eastern conflict: the wall.

Betlehem is home to Checkpoint 300, the busiest crossing point in and out of the West Bank. Palestinians need a permit to cross the border. There are several types: work permits will allow you to use the checkpoint on weekdays until certain time, some will grant you the permission to attend the Friday prayer in Jerusalem. 

For Israelis and the internationals the border's open 24/7.

The wall separates Israel from the West Bank and its structure varies from one place to another. In some places it's merely chicken wire, in others, such as here, a concrete wall several metres high. 

The wall in itself is not illegal or questionable - any sovereign country is allowed to build a wall around its borders. What makes this problematic though is the way it fails to follow the armistice line of 1949. It extends to the Palestinian territory, at times effectively cutting off Palestinians' access to their own land.

The wall has become the symbol of the politics and occupation practiced by the state of Israel. It's known by several names, apartheid wall being one of them. Back when I was working in Hebron, I had a conversation about it with a black South African colleague, who herself had witnessed the apartheid era.

The situation in Palestine is often compared to that of South Africa of those dark times. Her view, however, was much bleaker. Slowly she shook her head and disbelief. "No. This is worse. Much worse."

The wall is not just the symbol of the occupation, it's also the symbol of Palestinian resistance.

It's become a massive guest book where people all over the world leave their messages of despair and hope. 

Some of the individuals are instantly recognizable. Yes, Banksy was here, too.

* Blasting off my iPod right now: John Farnham: You're the voice*

___________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

      

SHARING IS CARING!

Women in Hebron - empowering women in West Bank

The distressing situation in Hebron has led to many women taking charge and becoming the breadwinners in the family.

Women in Hebron, a handicraft cooperative based in Old City of Hebron is a prime example of this. 

Founded in 2005 the cooperative also shows, that while Hebron is one of the most conservative cities in the West Bank, it's women are far from being oppressed victims. 

One slogan that is proudly displayed across the products is "men can do something, women can do anything". 

Oh, you Taylor Swifts of the world. Have you got a thing or two to learn about the real girl power...

These are the women behind the cooperative: sisters Leila and Nawal. Ladies of serious substance (and the best source of gossip in the Old City). Their tiny shop functions as an informal meeting point for the many internationals and NGO representatives and volunteers in the city.

It had been five years since we'd last seen, but the moment I walk in, Leila gives me a warm hug. Teapot arrives as if no time has passed and next thing I know, I have plans for the following day, too. "You busy? What time are you free? have you already been to Idna? You have to go to Idna! I'll ring the girls and have them make you maqloobe!"

Oh, yeah - Leila also makes probably the best maqloobe in the whole of West Bank. More on that in the next blog post!

The business has had some grants from consulates operating in West Bank, but making ends meet is a continuous struggle. Especially these days. But these ladies are not ready to give up  - that's just not a word that features in their vocabulary.

Leila is a cheerful example of this. She decided to learn English to better communicate with the internationals. Her husband wasn't keen on the idea to say the least and ripped up her text books. She just taped the ages back together and soldiered on. These days the husband still grunts but there's a look in his eyes that tells he, too, is secretly proud of his missus. 

Nawal tours the world sharing the story behind them and their products: one of hope and persistance. 

One of the classics is the traditional Palestinian dress with its delicate hand-made embroidery. Typically the colour of the embroider has told which part of West Bank the wearer hails from. Red embroidery is typical for Ramallah region, that colourful one for Hebron. 

A couple of years ago Nawal opened a workshop and community centre in the village of Idna, about 20 minutes from Hebron,  where they make these beautiful, thick wool rugs.

The colours of the Palestinian flag are a recurring theme.

The cooperative employs about 5 women full-time and more than hundred part-time. 

They even have a nursery to make sure that nothing stands in the way of these women following their dream. 

Elaborate embroidery decorates their gorgeous products; from cushion covers to place mats and Iphone and tablet cases. 

They're always coming up with new additions to their line and even keffiyef, the traditional Palestinian scarf gets a makeover in their hands. 

Psssst. In case you can't get to Hebron, they also have an online shop! 

___________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

      

Caring is sharing!

Hebron, West Bank - Welcome to Hell

In holiday stakes West Bank  is right there with, say, North Korea, Somalia and Baghdad. It simply doesn't even come to mind when planning a holiday, right? Then again, in the light of recent months' events, neither does Israel...

If, however, you should find yourself in Israel, it would be shame not to use the opportunity to see how the other half lives (quite literally, too). It's only 20 odd kilometres away, yet those two are worlds apart.

This time, too, I had very mixed feelings. But, having worked and lived in West Bank I have friends on that side of the border and conflict too, and it wouldn't have felt fair not to go. Make no mistake, though,  easy it isn't. 

It's rather confusing, too. As you cross the border, not only does the language spoken around you change, but so do the locations people use in their English. All of a sudden I do not come from Jerusalem, I come from Al Quds. I no longer arrive at Hebron, I arrive at Al Khalil. People's views on the conflict change, as do the circumstances in which they try to go on with their lives. 

For me personally things get even more schizophrenic as even my name changes. In Israel I use my second name which is something I'd never say out loud over here. 

So, off to Hebron it was. Getting there is easy - there's a direct servis that departs in from of the Damascus Gate. Servis is the Palestinian equivalent of Israeli sherut (or Tunisian louage), an shared minibus intercity taxi service that is usually quicker than the bus. The car departs once its full and until then the drivers shout out their destination at the station in order to attract customers.

"Al Khalil, Al Khalil!" the shout echoed in the air. As I spotted  the right car I nodded. That was enough to shut them all up. "Al Khalil?" they inquired, in disbelief. "Na'am", I replied. Yes.

If that's the reaction you get even from the Palestinians, you know there's a chance you should have reconsidered your itinerary. Perhaps Canary Island all inclusives really aren't all that bad a choice?

Hebron has, if possible, even worse reputation in Israel than before. Most of the Palestinian assailants in last months' attacks have been from Hebron. 

It's been 5 years since my last time here and things have certainly not changed for better. 

The international community along with UN have ruled that Israel is illegally occupying West Bank and violating every Geneva Convention in the process. This, of course, is something Israel doesn't admit.

The clashes that started in October have at least so far not been classified as the Third Intifada, but based on recent statistics more than 20 Israelis have been killed (along with an American student and a Palestinian bystander). In the same time more than 150 Palestinians have been killed. Palestinian Red Crescent estimates at least further 1600 have been injured. 

Military presence was heavy already before , but it's really been amped up. Road blocks in and around Hebron (of which there are dozens of) have been given a lick of paint and now sport Israeli flags. Road signs, that usually display names in both Hebrew and Arabic, have (depending on the location) had the other language painted over. 

Hebron is the largest city in West Bank, but it's not a place where people come in search of top restaurants, wineries or cultural pursuits. There are no beaches, shopping havens or anything else to keep a tourist entertained. What brings people here is political activism. 

Words I heard from an Israeli activist in a training before moving here speak volumes. Upon learning I was to be stationed in Hebron she just shook her head and said "welcome to Hell". 

Before King David captured Jerusalem and relocated his capital there, this was where he ruled from. In Old Testament the city was known as Kiryat Arba. This is also the city where David's son Absalom (whose grave we visited over here) started his revolt and declared himself the new king.

Hebron was one of the last cities to fall under the Muslim rulers in 7th century. Jewish inhabitation in the region continued though, sometimes meagre, sometimes practically non-existent. In 16th century there were 8-10 families, towards the end of the Ottoman Empire the number was up to about 100 families. 

1929 a rumour started to go around that the Jews were plotting to seize the Temple Mount. Enraged by this the local leaders urged people to attack the Jewish population. The result was 67 Jews killed, almost 100 wounded. The 435 Jews that survived only did so because of being hidden by their Arab neighbours. 

On the eve of Arab revolt of 1936, British government decided to move all the Jews out of Hebron as an pre-emptive security measure. One man remained, but in 1947 he, too, left and the Jewish population in Hebron had come to an end.

Every now and then you still catch a glimpse of how beautiful Hebron must have been in its heyday.

But she isn't much of a sight for sore any more.

Road blocks, barb wire fencing, checkpoints, rooftops littered with Israeli Army's watch towers - all speak of the tensions people here live with.

Hebron differs from the rest of the West Bank especially in one specific respect. Oslo Accords divided West Bank into three administrative categories: area A (under Palestinian civil and security control), area B (Palestinian civil administration and Israeli security control) and area C (completely under Israeli control).

'

In the subsequent Hebron Protocol the city was divided into 2 sectors: H1 and H2. The former is governed by Palestinian Authority, the latter is under Israeli rule. The border runs through the city, which means that whereas elsewhere in the West Bank the settlers live in settlements completely separate from the rest of the population, here they live among the Palestinian population. 

Palestinian population of Hebron is estimated to be roughly 215 000 and the number of settlers 500-800. Back when I lived here the size of the settler population was estimated to be around 500, protected by a 2000-strong army.

Most of the narrow alleyways of the old city are shielded by a net, put there to catch most of the junk settlers throw down. They fail to catch any liquids, though. Luckily I have ever been doused in just water.

The settlers in Hebron are, in their fierce ideological fervor, the most notorious ones in the West Bank. Here and there you still see graffitis bearing the symbol of Kach, a party long since banned.

Kach was a party founded by rabbi Meir Kahane which, even in the twisted scheme of Israeli politics, was radically right wing. Part of its agenda was banning any relations between Jews and non-Jews and revoking citizenship from all the non-Jews. In 1984 elections the party won a seat in Knesset, the Israeli parliament, but by the next election they were no longer allowed to run, courtesy of a new law banning "incitement to racism". 

Humanitarian situation here is dire. Unemployment rate is the highest in the whole of West Bank. The number of people living in poverty among the worst in West Bank and Gaza. Large portion of the men have been in prison at some point of their lives. Even children get sent to prison and human rights organizations' report on the treatment they face there make for unsettling reading. 

Situation in Old City is by far the most critical. The most recent statistics I could find were from 8 years ago and even back then the unemployment rate was 80%, while a whopping 75% of the people in Old City lived under the poverty line. 

In a bitter twist the ever expanding settlements are among the few places that provide employment. Some see no choice than to seek employment in Israel. Work permits are notoriousy difficult to come by, though, so many have to resort to crossing the border legally and working without papers.

This sign on the wall of the Old City puts things into perspective. Jerusalem truly is only 30 kilometres away but could just as well be on another planet. 

In order to get to Israel, you need a permit. Permits are next to impossible to obtain. And in case you or your family member's been in prison, forget about it. In case you're a manand fall into certain age bracket, forget about it. 

The #1 reason for all this craziness and people's unfaltering desire to stay here is this. Machpela Cave, or Ibrahimi Mosque. World's oldest sacred place continuously in use and the final resting place of the Old Testament's Patriarchs.

This is the grave of Abraham, Isac and Jacob and their wives. An Herod-era building used to be located here, which in the Byzantine time saw the coming of a basilica, on top of which a mosque was built in 7th century, which in turn was converted into a church during the Crusades, which then was turned back into a mosque at the end of 12th century.

Its biggest claim to fame lies, however, in the tragic events of 1994, when Baruch Goldstein (take a wild stab at guessing which party he supported...), resident of the nearby Kiryat Arba settlement walked into the mosque in the middle of the Friday prayer, opened fire and killed 29 worshippers, wounding dozens of others. 

The consequences were catastrophic. Tends more were killed in the riots that ensued. In the end the building was divided in 2. 40% constitutes a mosque and 60% was given to the synagogue. In addition to this each religion has annually 10 days, when the building is only open to them.

Palestinians are still paying a heavy price for the events. In 1994 a series of curfews were imposed. Shuhada street, previously a bustling Palestinian market street, was closed from the Palestinians and the doors to their shops were welded shut. 

In the aftermath of the events of recent months, the army has now declared it (too) a closed military zone and even foreigners aren't allowed to enter.

Since then army has, citing those inimitable security reasons, closed down even more Palestinians shops, only adding to the downwards spiral of the local economy.

Old City is full of human tragedies, each more depressing than the next. Kids, running after you on the street try to keep a little business going by escorting tourists to the rooftops, the view from which doesn't make one sigh in delight. As you make your way up onto the roof through the steep stone stairs, you catch a view of people's homes and the incredibly dire conditions people here live in. 

Hebron has traditionally been a significant centre of trade. Here and there you still see some of that bustling bazaar. 

There just aren't any customers. Not that this has been much of a tourist destination for a long time, but recent months have scared off even the last ones. Vendor after vendor shakes their head and gestures powerlessly. "There are nobody here". 

Many of the people I came to know have given up. More and more doors never open again. 

Since medieval time Hebron has been famous for her handicrafts. Another traditional industry is glass: first records of that date back to 9th century.

In addition to handicrafts and glass, Hebron is also famous for their pottery.

Hebron is also home to the last keffiyeh factory in Palestinian territories, manufacturing the only genuine Palestinian scarves. 

For a long time they, too, struggled to survive, trying to stand up to scarves made in China for fraction of their price, but oddly enough the recent months have turned out to be their saving grace. "Oh, they're doing alright", one of the vendors confided. "Very well indeed". 

Next we're going to have a closer look at the Palestinian handicrafts and some serious girl power: I'm going to introduce you to two of my Palestinian mamas!

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ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

      

Tykkäsitkö? Kerro kavereillekin!