Restaurant Sicapelle in Porvoo - effortless elegance all the way

With its effortless elegance Sicapelle is the best restarant you'll find in Porvoo.

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Though my precious date got to have his way when it came to the dinner venue during our recent foodie escapade to Porvoo, I just couldn't not show him the more refined side of town, too. So, I secured us a lunch at Sicapelle, Meat District's owners' other restaurant. 

These days it would be impossible to even try and imagine Porvoo without the power couple that is Riku and Johanna Stenros, who operate a bit of an empire that's - let's face it -actually behind all my favourite addresses in Porvoo.

Their magic touch and passion for creating unforgettable experiences have made Meat District, Sicapelle, my favourite hotel Pariisin Ville and this trip's accommodation Hotel Onni what they are: charmingly unique places full of personal touches that make it worthwhile to stay in Porvoo for a whole weekend. 

Unlike some of the other restaurants in Porvoo, theirs are also open all year round, enabling culinary crusaders such as us to make the most of off season, too. 

Located in the same building as tiny boutique hotel Onni (only six rooms!), Sicapelle has already won me over in the past. For the date it was his first time. 

We made it just in time for lunch and wound up having the whole place to ourselves, which only served to make the experience even more intimate. 

Sicapelle gets everything right. Stylish ambiance, which still manages to avoid slipping down the trecherous slope of awkward pomposity, locally sourced top quality ingredients and a great staff.

The chef Simona Milazzo's love of local produce and creative use of veggies is evident. The floor staff's enthusiasm about making you feel welcome along with their knowledgeability about wines is another source of great joy.

Everything lulls you into the kind of cosy bubble of bon vivant where you hear yourself going along with everything you're offered. 

"Sure, why not!"

How about some bubbles to start with? "Why not!"

Pierre Paillard's Les Parcelles Bouzy Grad Cru (á €15) was a perfect way to start our weekend. The elegant,toasty and rich grower Champagne (60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay)  immediately tuned us into a frequency of fabulousness that told the weekend was going to be a good one.  

As I'd like to at least think we've learnt a little about the past excesses (no we haven't) and I had an inkling the dinner at Meat District was going to be a hearty one (little did I know just how hearty...!), instead of the 4-course lunch (€39) we settled on the 3-course one (€34) - seeing how with two eaters we'd still get to sample both of the mains. 

To start with there was salmon confit with fennel, dill and horseradish mayo. Light, precise and oh, so elegant. 

For main my fish-loving Gothenburger opted for white fish, potatos and dill. 

Carrots with their intriguing caviar-like texture a gorgeous sauce still didn't steer the dish off its wonderfully summery course.

I went for the meatier option: Iberico pork cheeks and celeriac.

Pork cheeks weren't stewed quite as long as I like mine and they could have had a tad more salt in them, but the overall textures, glorious earthy nuttiness of the roasted celeriac and the divinely rich sauce made it a winner nonetheless.

The wine recommendations for the mains were spot on again - thanks to our fantastic waitress for those.

In addition to interesting artesan wines (emphasis on organic production) there's a wide selection of natural wines as the date's glorious white Burgundy (Domaine Fanny Sabre Bourgogne Blanc) showcased. 

My red was a classic Burgundy blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot) and seduced with its complex richness. 

The dessert consisted of coconut milk ice cream, lime, meringue and dried yoghurt. Sounds simple (like everything else here), but damn, how excellently executed.

The dessert wine pairing (that I was too high on happiness to shoot) was Muscat Grand Guilhem de Riversaltes -also natural and also (surprisingly) perfect match.

In that seeming simplicity lies the reason why Sicapelle is a foodie's #1 choice in Porvoo. They've paid attention to every detail of your dining experience, but not in a way that makes a big deal of any of it. Everything's just elegant in an effortless way that undoubtedly hides a whole lot of work and dedication. 

The service runs smoothly and they have mastered the art of making you want more. Results become evident as the bill hits the table. 

Our lunch with one coffee and tip came to a little over €170. With a little self-restraint you could get away with (a lot) less, but hey - we came here to be spoiled. And spoiled we were.

The date classifies himself as a culinary analphabet, but he, too, was well and truly impressed, which speaks in volumes about his true nature. 

"With you it's an endless discovery of new great restaurants", he sighed, signalling that some serious development has been made in regards to his analphabetism. 

So, how about that? Would you rather go for Meat District's relaxedness or Sicapelles elegance? Or would you, too, have them both?

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Sicapelle

Kirkkotori 3

06100 Porvoo

+358 (0) 40 1479 933

dinnerille@sicapelle.fi

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Meat District Porvoo - carnivore's wet dream

Dying for a proper steak and some serious wine? Then Meat District Porvoo is a place for you.

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Crisis has been averted. I'm done crying (for now, anyway) and looking forward to the future.

The reason for my sudden burst of happiness? I spent the last weekend in Porvoo.

On a date.

With the Gothenburger.

My feet are finally almost touching the ground and my fingers are ready to type stuff other than lovey-dovey heart-eyed-emojis.

But let me just tell you this: he. Is. Amazing. 

As I was busy putting the itinerary together for the weekend I asked my date if he'd be more into fine dining or carnivore's wet dream. The answer came quicker than a rocket from Gaza: "meat". 

And when in Porvoo, that can only mean one thing: Meat District.

Porvoo is bustling with intriguing restaurants but it didn't take Meat District long to make its mark. The restaurant doesn't flirt with what ever trend is sweeping through foodie world and doesn't apologize for it either. 

They are unashamedly good at what they do and that is meat. Locally produced, organic kind. 

When you're greeted with a steak knife that size, you just know you're in for good stuff.

According to their website the menus are available for vegetarians, too, but meat is what keeps people flocking here.

And I can't really imagine any ethereal vegan activist would be too thrilled about the focal point of the restaurant's decor: the meat aging cabinet that takes up an entire wall.

We on the other hand couldn't stop admiring it. It is a thing of beauty.

We kicked off our second first date with Hendrick's G&T (€11.50). 

And, if at all possible, kept staring each other even more enchanted than during the original first date. My cheeks still hurt from all the smiling...!

There's an 8-course-menu MD All In (€79)  and a 4-course-menu Half In (€59). Both also come with wine packages paired by the sommelier combining both natural and classic wines (€32/ €46).

By the time we discovered dry aged beef for two (€84) was entrecôte, we knew we just had to have some. 

We started our carnivorous carnage with cold cuts (€19) and Bosgård's beef tartare (€14.90).

So very good. That Pata Negra practically melted in one's mouth.

As the main made its grand entrance at the table it became increasingly evident tonight wasn't going to be the night we do anything in moderation. 

Just look at the size of that slab!

The entrecôte was served with grilled lettuce, baked potatos, Bearnaise and marinated red cabbage, the acidity of which nicely balanced the richness of the meat and sauce.

Just looking at the entrecôte and its glorious crust and smokey aroma (courtesy of Mibrasa charcoal grill) still makes me a bit emotional. 

You'd think that by the time you wobble back to the hotel with your stomach holding half a dead cow, romance would be the last thing on your mind. You'd be wrong. 

You'd also think that after a meat feast like that, you wouldn't be in the mood for meat for a while, but you'd be wrong - again. The whiff of a barbecue flowing on the streets of Porvoo the following day made me want to dig into that all over again.

Good stuff.

Much like at the owners' other restaurant Sicapelle, they're awfully keen on natural wines over here.

We're not though, so we went for Taurasi de Falco from Southern Italy (€69). It's full-bodied voluptiousness and aromatic character bordering on smoky was a very good choice indeed.

Located in one of Old Porvoo's wooden houses Meat District has a relaxed ambiance where it's impossible not to feel at ease. Even the thought of dessert was too much for our stomachs, but instead we stayed behind devouring each others' company, some coffees and post-dinner cocktails until we realized we were the only customers left. 

Pretty damn good second first date, if you ask me.

The total came to €262. 

Seeing Gothenburger sit across the table, being able to hold his hand and seeing that smile I'd been missing for months - priceless. For everything else there's Mastercard...

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Meat District

Gabriel Hagertin kuja

06100 Porvoo

+358 (0)20 7705 390

info@meatdistrict.fi

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Boutique hotel Pariisin Ville in Porvoo - what a gem!

If a hotel can be love at first sight (and we all know it can!), boutique hotel Pariisin Ville in Porvoo is just that.

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Boutique hotel Pariisin Ville in Porvoo is a hotel I'd been dreaming of ever since they opened (yes, I do love my hotels. That much...) For me Porvoo is something that needs to be experienced at least once a summer, but it's impossible to get enough of it in just one day. 

So, what you really want to do is make your way here for a romantic minibreak and trust me: you can't do better than this hotel.

The moment I walked into the hotel that comprises of just 10 rooms, I knew my stay was going to be a good one. A very good one. 

The jazz lingering in the background, decor that is just the right amount of opulence and elegance and friendly service immediately whisked me into another world; a world where it's never too early for Champagne and life is there to be enjoyed. 

Both the hotel and its owners' restaurant Sicapelle have been named after another bona fide bon vivant; a sculptor Ville Vallgren (1855-1940).

"Open, loud, impulsive and peculiar friend of good food and wine" is how the hotel'd website describes the man; words that sound eerily familiar...!

(Sicapelle, by the way, was his pet pig, so in peculiarity stakes he beats yours truly)

Hotel's wine bar sources its carefully curated wines from small quality producers in Central Europe. Focus is on organic and biodynamic wines. 

Hotel's unique ambiance is down to thoroughly thought-through details; both in the public areas and each of the individually designed rooms (prices €135- €290 per night, including breakfast).

Each room has a separate living room area in addition to the sleeping room. Some have their own sauna, one even its own sauna department with its own balcony.

Everything here is done just a little bit better - starting from the toiletries.

The only minus comes for the wifi, which none of us could get to work.

That just a little bit better applies to breakfast as well, and I managed to Instagram quite possibly the perfectly ethereal breakfast photo, the Holy Grail of travel bloggers. 

(Ok, I'm a little ashamed right now...)

Small but top quality selection comes from local small producers.

And hey - in case you can't bear to leave your room, you can have the breakfast come to you! With Champagne! (€65 for two)

How about that? Isn't that just about the most adorable hotel you've ever seen?

* Hotel stay was part of Taste House Porvoo's SMAKU tour* 

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Postcard from Porvoo - wish you were here

Porvoo is such a picturesque little town and charms with its architecture, history, restaurants, cafes and shops.

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Hi there älskling,

greetings from Porvoo (or Borgå, as you'd say it, being a Swede). This is one of the many places I was hoping to take you to, but time ran out... again. 

I don't think you fully believed all my oohing and aahing over what an adorable little place this is? Well, have a look yourself. It is. 

You might have already noticed how Helsinki is missing the sort of Old Town we fell in love with in, say, Tallinn or Stockholm. That's why for the foreign tourists this is being promoted as "Helsinki's Old Town". 

Porvoo is, in fact, the second oldest town in Finland (though Helsinki is not the oldest, Turku is). 

And definitely one of the prettiest, too. 

Porvoo was founded already in the Medieval times (oh yeah, it's even older than you!) and in 1380 it became one of the first 6 places in Finland to be granted rights of a town. Though today it's such a harmonious haven, trust me - it's seen its fair share of drama. Early in the 16th century Danish pirates destroyed this town and at the end of that very century Russians burned the place down. Twice. 

In the 17th century Porvoo was actively engaged in trade with Tallinn - for instance all the fur trade of the Central Finland went through Porvoo. 

(Oh, do you remember our weekend in Tallinn? My favourite trip to Estonia, ever ♥)

Looking around the gingerbread house-like charm of this place today you wouldn't believe that around the mid-18th century Porvoo was actually one of the largest towns in the whole of Finland. 

At the beginning of the 18th century the Russians burnt the place down again and in 1760 a fire that someone started while boiling fish destroyed 2/3 of the buildings at the time (want to bet it was one of them food bloggers, poring over their Instagram accounts, too busy to pay attention to what's actually going on around them...?) 

The charming houses that now constitute the Old Town were built after that.

With the pastel-coloured houses and narrow cobble-stoned streets Porvoo is full of that Southern Swedish storybook-like charm that I love so much. 

And hey - you'd do splendidly here with your funny language, too: almost 1/3 of the people are Swedish-speakers (back in the 60's they still constituted majority...!)

Though a bus would take us here from Helsinki in less than an hour, I doubt I could bear to say goodbye to all this at the end of the day. There's just so much to see here and coo over. Oh, and eat. 

I'd treat you to a night at Pariisin Ville, the most adorable boutique hotel I think I've ever seen, right in the middle of everything (I just can't wait to tell you about that one!)

One of the things that make Porvoo so great (and one of firm favourites of mine) is all the great restaurants it has. I'd be struggling to choose venues for lunches and dinners even for a 2-day-trip! Zum Beispiel, Sinne, Sicapelle and Meat District are only some of the places you'd simply have to see.

Well, you know what I mean - I mean, you saw the photos from my SMAKU- extravaganza, didn't you? Good stuff, huh? You would have loved it. 

Oh, and I also checked out Brasserie L'Amour, scheduled to open in a couple of weeks. Looking good, that too. 

I know what you're thinking and I'm wondering the same thing, too: how can there possibly be enough business for all these restaurants in a town of merely 50 000 people? But apparently that's just it: the better quality selection of restaurants you have, the more there's demand and the more it benefits everybody in the industry. 

And anyway, we, Helsinki people, constitute their primary target audience. Who knew!

Jag vet, jag vet. I know I've been going completely overboard with the use of "adorable", but that's exactly what this place is like. Adorable. Even the shops. Adorable. And you know me - I can't stand loitering in shops!

The Old Town has so many delightful little shops selling antiques and random bric-a-brac and kitchen supplies, so you can imagine how my inner hoarder is in heaven right about now (well, it is for staging and styling those photographs...)

Hey, before I forget - did you like those hand-made chocolates I brought back as souvenirs? This is where they came from: Petri's Chocolate Room (they're great, aren't they - I especially love their black currant truffles!)

Petri also has a shop in Fiskars; another paradise I'd like to take you to. 

But don't you worry - I'd make sure to leave plenty of time for hanging out at the cosy cafes that Porvoo has so many of. I know how much you like that - seeing how you come from the fika capital of Sweden. 

And you know what else I'd leave even more time for? Walking around, holding hands. Oh, and kissing. A whole lot of that. There's something in the air here that makes one fall in love all over again. 

Remember Mr. Runeberg? Dubbed as the national poet of Finland? You know, the guy who's had a street named after him in Töölö? Well, while he was still alive, he was a very important character in Porvoo. His wife, though, continues to do so even today.

See, she created the eponymous pastry for her husband and Ani's Cafe, located in the house next door to Runebergs' old home, still makes them using the original recipe. Which, for the record, makes the best Runeberg cakes I've ever tasted!

(How about that, by the way - having a cake named after you? I wonder what yours would contain... apart from Kalles Kaviar, that is!)

The apple trees in the garden are heavy with fruit - summer is coming to an end here, too.

But right now the sun is still shining; so brightly and oh, so warmly - making one lull herself into thinking summer could just go on like this forever...

As the evening falls into night, I would take you for a walk along the river bank, where the silvery mist floating out of the river turns the ambiance even more magical. I'd squeeze your hand so tight and whisper into your ear how happy I am; right here, right now, with you. 

Oh, and then I'd take you for a night cap at Pariisin Ville's wine bar. They even have Vilmart you know, that Champagne I like!

And come morning, I'd promise not to pester you into waking up early for breakfast. I'd just lie there next to you, listening to your breathing, inhaling the scent of your skin... still holding your hand. 

Wish you were here. I miss you.

XOXO

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SHARING IS CARING!