Viking Line's Champagne cruise on MS Grace - go on, spoil yourself!

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Viking Line's annual Champagne cruise on MS Grace is a perfect way to spoil yourself and the one you love. After all - Champagne is a lot like love itself!

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Meeting people for the first time is always as frightening as it is exciting.

What if in reality your date looks nothing like George Clooney (unlike his profile pic...)? What if you're in for a husband and a father of 18, just looking for something on the side?

What if your date turns out to be a sociopath serial killing maniac and at the end of the evening you'll end up mutilated and chopped up in a sports bag which won't be found until years from now in a basement somewhere in Denmark?

But the reason that keeps us trying again and again is the fact that the first date can also turn out to be a mind-blowing experience, which makes your insides bubble and leaves a smile on your face. Life feels like a celebration and everything feels possible. Eyes open and all of a sudden you're faced with a completely new world. 

Seriously? There are people like this out there in the world?

Senses sharpen as you don't want to miss a second. Every moment reveals something new and enticing about the other person, leaving your head spinning and wanting for more. 

Prices for Champagnes sold by the glass at Seamore Lounge start at €8. In our glasses Dom Perignon 2006, €28/ glass.

Sure, they come in all shapes and sizes; them people. But the more you get to know them, the better you start to understand what suits your own taste the best.

And then, when you come across something that sweeps you off your feet and makes you see stars... you've got to get more of that.

Much like is the case with Champagne.

The house Champagne onboard Viking Line's ships is Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve - an affordable find at the Duty Free for a mere €29.90 a bottle

Sure, the world is full of sparking wines. There's Prosecco and Cava. Sekt and Cremant. Sometimes you discover some real gems among them, too, but Champagne is the queen of all drinks. 

Part of its allure is based on the exclusivity. Champagne is only produced in a very small area, where people have spent hundreds of years mastering the craft with the aim of coming up with something which turns every day into a party and elevates the parties to a whole new level. 

It's something which at its best stops you at your feet. A bottle which, at its most spectacular, creates a celebration just by being opened. 

Already the sound of the popping cork instantly lifts one's spirits. Then there's the quiet sizzle as it's being poured into a glass.

The gloriusly golden content. The ascent of bubbles sparkling like millions of diamonds. The aroma; toasty, bright, fruity.

The pious moment you take the first, long-anticipated sip and the way the first touch makes your mouth water. The richness, which caresses your palate, whispering promises of adventures to come.

Champagne - my favourite tipple in the world. 

The only alcohol which is socially acceptable to enjoy any time of the day.

Drink that has throughout the history been devoured from a variety of vessels - some of them almost as legendary as the drink itself. 

The most classic Champagne glass is said to have been modelled after the breast of no less than the Queen of France. In 20th century it was considered the height of decadence to drink Champagne out of one's lady companions' shoe.  

Let's face it - who couldn't use more decadence in their life?

Like so many of the best things in life, Champagne was created by accident. Still today a lot depends on factors beyond man's control: poor weather conditions for instance can effectively ruin the entire harvest.

Champagne is associated with so much elegance and mystery; something that was only accelerated by the way it for a long time remained a pleasure only reserved for the royal courts.

The history of Champagne, however, is a history shaped by many strong and independent women. The (often early) deaths of men saw many of their widows (veuve in French, as in Veuve Clicquot) take control and in time they came to play a significant role in both developing new methods and the way businesses were run.

Best Champagne is very much like love itself: it makes you wait for it. In order to reach its peak Champagne needs to be treated with care - starting from Pinot Noir, the grape that lends Champagne its body. It's a temperamental and a very dignified variety which doesn't put up with just any surroundings... or company. 

Champagne is also not a drink for the foolish or impatient - you have to give it time to mature. But once you do this... Oh là là.

The final result makes it worth all the effort. 

Exactly a year ago I sat down in a wine bar for a first date which I had been looking forward to with an increasing panic gripping my every nerve. The cork had been popped about a week and a half earlier as we'd exchanged our first messages and already then I knew I was in for a rare treat.

And now, here he was - only an arm's length away.

We drank Pinot Noir and stared at each other; overwhelmed. Both of us worrying what was going through the other person's head; each just longing to reach out into one anothers' arms. 

The evening was over far too soon. There was still so much to explore and admire. The date had left us both bewildered as if we'd been hit in the head. It was impossible to even try to sleep. 

We continued texting well into the morning until the dawn broke and the first birds started their concert outside our respective windows. 

What on earth had just happened?

There was no doubt about it - I had to get more of this. 

This was a person I knew I wanted to take my time enjoying. It only took some weeks before I found myself onboard Viking Line (armed with Champagne, of course!) making my way across the sea -  and into his arms again. 

The road that led to me finding this rare specimen was not an easy one, but worth all the wait; worth all the yeasty, corked, second-class tastings I'd have to suffer through.

The circumstances were right at last. Time had matured us both and we were ready for this moment; a moment one doesn't get many of in one lifetime. Some never do.  

There we were, ready to open and share our content with someone who'd appreciate and cherish it - down to the last drop.

Now, a year later, we look at each other, still not quite believing our paths actually crossed. 

And I couldn't have thought of a better way to celebrate our first anniversary and love; spread across two states than the annual Champagne cruise on Viking Line's MS Grace, sailing between those two very countries. 

Prices for 24-hour Champagne cruise onboard MS Grace (Turku- Stockholm) start at €157 pp (depending on the cabin class)

The journey it took for the time to be right for the both of us has been a long and arduous one. Perhaps that's why I don't want to waste another minute. I no longer want to wait any more than I absolutely must: I want to enjoy and spoil us right now.

He only deserves the best and that's why only MS Grace, the pride and joy of Viking Line's fleet, would do.

A beautiful cabin and dreamy bed we can just dive in and forget all about the world outside.

The wonderful meals at Oscar à la Carte, prepared by someone else so that for once we both can just sit down to focus on enjoying the feast... and each other.

Menus at Oscar á la Carte start at €44 pp. (€66 including the wine pairings) 

A visit to the spa; lounging in the Jacuzzi and admiring the archipelago that separates us.

Entrance to Wellness Spa €24/ adult. Ship's Champagne (Charles Heidsieck)  €27 / demi bottle

Seamore Lounge with its glorious selection of Champagnes by the glass along with all the rarities only available  during the Champagne cruise; each as unique as this moment.

Deluxe breakfast at Oscar á la Carte, overlooking the sea view we both love so much.

Deluxe breakfast is included in the cabin price from  Premium class upwards. Purchased separately the price is €19 (€17 when purchased in advance)

Champagne tasting, which allows us to learn more not just about the Champagne, but each other, too. 

Charles Heidsieck, Henriot, Joseph Perrier, Veuve Clicquot, Moët Chandon, Taittinger, Ruinart, Dom Perignon... much like the bubbles in those endless glasses of Champagne we're finding it difficult to keep our feet on the ground. 

This is Heaven - we never want the cruise to end. 

Ship's legendary seafood platter that neither one of us can get enough of. Little touches of luxury which will carry us with their wings for days even after the return. 

Seafood platter €47 pp. Champagne (Taittinger Folies de la Marquetterie ) €72 / bottle

And of course a trip to Viking Line's Duty Free, where (courtesy of their own impressive import and unbeatable prices) we choose Champagnes to take home with us.

Champagnes we've fallen in love with on this trip; bottles we'll open together and be instantly transported back to the blissful moments of these past days and all the wonderful memories we're now creating together. 

Strong and independent. That's something I have been for a long time. But that's also meant alone. Now it's time to make room in my life for the most incredible of individuals and embrace all the adventures the possibilities of which at this point seem endless. 

Our smiling eyes meet each other across the table as we raise our glasses. 

Let the journey begin!

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In collaboration with Viking Line

___________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

         

SHARING IS CARING!

Sherry tour of Andalusia: La Cigarrera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda

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Bodegas La Cigarrera in Sanlúcar de Barrameda is the oldest sherry house still operating at its original premises. Every bit as charming as it is tiny! 

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La Cigarrera - oldest sherry bodega still operating at it original premises

The final stop on our tour of Andalusian Sherry country is Sanlúcar de Barrameda, where you can visit some historic sherry bodegas.

In addition to Delgado Zuleta, the oldest sherry house in Sherry country, Sanlúcar is also home to La Cigarrera, the oldest sherry house in Marco de Jerez still operating out of its original premises. 

Just like Delgado Zuleta's La Goya, the name of this sherry house is a tribute to a local woman. La Cigarrera was named after the cigarette vendors working on the streets of Cádiz.

This tiny bodega is also one of the most charming ones. 

The use of the word "tiny" is not an understatement in this context: I could quite possibly fit all their barrels into my own home. 

All the hustle and bustle of the outside world, the stress caused by running from one bodega to another and the narrow streets of Sanlúcar's old town;basking in the glow of late spring's scorching sun are instantly forgotten the moment I enter the bodega, surrounded by thick walls. 

I let out a long-awaited breath of relief. This is my last bodega for the day - perhaps now I get to relax a bit, too?

A Canadian couple taking part in the same tour of the bodega looks on as I - still armed with only two hands - try to balance my camera, six glasses of sherry, my notebook and my phone. 

"So... we take it you're here on business, then?" they ask, looking curious.

Sweat running down my forehead I force a smile and continue my juggling act. 

No, nothing is impossible for a food blogger...

...at  least for one who knows there's wine waiting somewhere down the line.

The traditional Andalusian patio houses a popular restaurant and especially in the summer the tables are full of people enjoying the taverna's feast, combining house wines with local culinary traditions. 

Its location smack on the Atlantic shore means Sanlúcar is famous not just for their Manzanilla, echoing ocean's briny breeze, but also seafood - especially langoustines. 

La Cigarrera - 9th generation family business

Much like the other sherryhouses we've visited on our journey, La Cigarrera boasts a long and impressive history.

It was founded in 1758 by Don Joseph Colóm Darbóa, a merchant who had settled here from Barcelona. 

Today the bodega is in the hands of Ignacio Hidalgo, a 9th generation member of the family. He himself actually trained to be a lawyer, but took over the company after his father's death. 

"Our family's always worked in sherry", he tells. La Gitana sherry for instance is his cousin's operation. 

"Sherry houses are invariably either very big or very small - there's really nothing in between", Ignacio  explains. 

His empire clearly belongs to the latter category. As he looks around his empire - clearly belonging to the latter category - he smiles. "Sure, this all has certain romantic air about it."

The bodega was opened to visitors 17 years ago. 

There are tours daily from Monday to Saturday and the admission (including a tasting of 3 sherries) is only a couple of euros. 

Almacenista ages and stores sherry

The old rules of Conceil Regulador, the body overseeing the sherry production in the area, used to set minimum requirements for the stock. As a result most of the small sherry houses acted primarily as almacenistas. 

Almacenista translates as a stockkeeper. Traditionally they've specialized in aging and storing sherries which they then sold to larger shipping bodegas. 

La Cigarrera started bottling their own produce in 1997.

Previously they even owned their owned vineyards, but these days they source their sobretablas (that's the new batch of wine used to fill the first of the criaderas) from local farmers. 

Spanish market is big sherry houses' market

"It is easier for the big sherry houses to break into and stay in the Spanish market", Ignacio admits. "For majority of the customers it's the price that matters."

According to him small houses have it easier on the international market.

Export has taken off in the past decade and Ignacio believes its role will continue to be crucial in the future, too. 

Old habits die hard, though.

"In wines at large the trend favours drier and dried wines, but for instance Holland, one of the biggest sherry export destinations, still hasn't learnt to drink anything other than sweet sherries", Ignacio point out. 

Manzanilla - the prode and joy of La Cigarrera

Ignacio himself prefers dry sherries such as Manzanilla, Fino and Palo Cortado - Manzanilla being the obvious favourite. 

Manzanilla is the apple of La Cigarrera's eye and constitutes 70% of the bodega's production. Most of it is sold to restaurants "en rama"; straight out of the barrels. This results in Manzanilla which (without any of the purification and clarification that is part of the bottling process) is very true to the way Manzanilla originally used to taste like a good 150 years ago. 

Sherry - not for teenagers

Though La Cigarreras sales have remained steady, growth in sherry's popularity is something they too would welcome. 

Ignacio puts his faith in the thirtysomethings. "Spanish teenagers won't deink sherry", he laughs. "Beer and gin - those are their preferred tipples!"

Sherry's revival is something La Cigarrera is cautiously hopeful about. According to Ignacio part of this is down to the fact that Conceil Regulador has awoken to the need to invest in PR and marketing. 

The fería season which starts in Spaineach spring marks a boom in the domestic sales, but Ignacio remarks that in this, too, the big houses are the real winners: they can afford to sell big quantities even at a loss. 

Sacristia - sherry bodega's holiest of the holiest

If the bodega in itself is small, their Sacristia is downright adorably picturesque - I could probably fit in my bathroom. 

As the rest of our group retires to the shade in the patio to start their sherry tasting,Ignacio escorts me to the conforting coolness of the Sacristia. 

All the rush and stress have by now been wiped away. 

My finger carefully sweeps past a dust-covered row of old bottles. Excitement bubbles inside of me as I gaze around me, anticipating what's to come. 

Once more I realize just how privileged I am -not just anyone gets invited here.

Venencia awokens the sherry's aromas

Inside the Sacristia Ignacio grabs a venencia;a tool traditionally used to measure and pour sherry and fills my glass.

Sanlúcar marks a departure from the rest of the Sherry country in this respect, too: though everywhere else venencia is a metallic instrument, in Sanlúcar it's made using a simgle piece of bamboo. 

Ignacio's confident moves tell that he's performed the move hundreds  of times but the twinkle in his eye before the schpiel reveals he knows it won't fail to impress audience this time either. 

"So, did you get it on camera?" he smiles mischievously.

Oh, I did.

The schpiel is about much more than showmanship - venencia is said to have help release the aromas of the sherry prior to serving. 

The skill is the result of lengthy practice and there's a whole profrssion dedicated to it: venenciadores. 

They showcase their craft in events such as ferias and there are even international competitions for this odd art form.

For some reason I'm not surprised to learn that this this craft has found a loyal following in Japan of all the countries. 

La Cigarrera sherrytasting

Manzanilla 

Crisp wine with oceany notes that immediately identify it as a Manzanilla. Very dry, yet not too aromatic.

Amontillado  

Toastiness, nuttiness, toffee-like quality. Surprisingly smooth, yet notes of that oceany saltiness are present in this one, too. 

Oloroso

Toastiness, raisins with that peculiar taste of Sanlúcar (delicate salty breeze).

Cream

Whoah. What a wine! Orangee peel adds tangy sharpness that beautifully balances the sweetness.

Moscatel

On the nose it is extremely concentrated and leads to a complex and long finish echoing dry berry woods, malt, fig and delicate toastiness.

(At this point even I'm impressed by the professionality of my tasting notes... until I notice the last sentence in my rewiew)

"Sweet, but not like sickly gross kind of sweet".

(...Aaaand the idiot is back)

As the last treat Ignacio scoops out a glass of something dark, thick and oh, so promising. His concentrated face looks even more focused and he won't miss a drop. 

I'm glad he won't, as this is a glass of 70+- year old Pedro Ximénez  - not that I am even aware of it at this point. 

He hands me the glass as his intense gaze studies my reactions. 

I take a whiff. 

Then I taste. 

My eyes are shot wide open. In disbelief I raise my gaze and meet Ignacio's quizzical face.

"Increíble", is all I can whisper. "Incredible".

Already the nose is intoxicating. Incredibly concentration features dry fruit such as raisin, along with toasty notes of caramel. Long finish lingers on, wrapping the whole palate in dreamily thick silk.

The expression on Ignacio's face gives way to a broad smile as he slowly nods approvingly - clearly registering how moved I am. 

"Not many people have had the chance to taste that" he says. "You are quite lucky, you know?"

Oh, I do. 

La Cigarrera is the last bodega I visit in Andalusia. My head spins as I reflect on everything I've experenced and tasted. 

Different towns truly lend their distictive characteristics to each sherry, that I have learnt. I'm reminded of an old saying:

"For Manzanilla there's Sanlúcar, for Fino you have El Puerto and for Oloroso you go to Jerez!"

You'll find all the previous stops of our tour of Andalusian sherry bodegas over here:

- Introduction to sherry, the unsung hero of wines

- Valdespino/ Grupo Estevez, Jerez de la Frontera

- Osborne, El Puerto de Santa María

- Delgado Zuleta,Sanlúcar de Barrameda

Now I would loooove to hear from you guys! Which one did you like the best? 

Fine Fino? Magnificent Manzanilla? Awesome Oloroso? Or beautiful Pedro Ximénez? 

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Bodegas La Cigarrera

Plaza Madre de Dios s/n (Junto Plaza de Abastos)

11540 Sanlúcar de Barrameda

tel. +34 956 381 285

www. bodegaslacigarrera.com

visitas@bodegaslacigarrera.com

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___________________

ANYONE FOR SECONDS?

         

SHARING IS CARING!