Foodie traveller's tips to Cádiz and rest of Andalusian Sherrycountry

For a foodie traveller Andalusian Sherrycountry is a dream. Here are my favourite addresses in South Western Andalusia!

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Going hungry is something that I really didn't need to worry about during my trip to Andalusian Sherrycountry, a.k.a. tour of Cádiz, Jerez, El Puerto de Santa Marían and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Somebody made a cautious comment going over blog's Instagram feed wondering if I managed to have time to do anything other than eat. Well, not really. But that wasn't the plan either!

Seeing how my journey took me through the South Western coast, there was also no risk of having to go through a single day without octopus. Oh, no. I kept stuffing my face with that tentacled love of mine like there was no tomorrow. Same thing with Iberico pork. Starting with my daily breakfast bocadillo. 

Oh, Andalusia. I do love you so. 

Let's start the round-up from Cádiz, where I spent most of my time. 

Cádiz:

Most of the best tapas bars are located in the "hand bit" of Cádiz Old Town. One of the most traditional ones is Taberna Casa Manteca, which couldn't be more kitsch retro authentic.

Arrive early as it is wildly popular among the locals and fills quickly.

Another place worth checking out in the neighbourhood is tiny La Tabernita, which has only been open for a couple of years. It's a little edgier and decorated with drawings by the owner Rafa, a great guy and passionate about his wine. 

The menu is short and sweet, but everything on it is good. Like, really good. Tortillitas de camarones, a Cádiz specialty is particularly good, as are albondigas de choco, cuttle fish meatballs. The top chef in charge of the kitchen is top notch, too - she's Rafa's mama. 

You'll find my recipe for the meatballs over here and for tortillitas de camarones over here.

One of the most famous restaurants in the area is El Faro (tasting menus start at €40). Don't expect anything too innovative, but if you're after traditional Spanish treats, you're in for a treat. 

Even bigger recommendation for the bar and their tapas selection. 

Located by the sea across the town there's Balandro, with slighty more modern take on things. The menu combines Spanish traditions with Asian and Middle Eastern influences. Brioche-based French toast with Iberico Bellota, foie gras and apple compote`Every bit as sinfully delicious as it sounds. 

Points for interesting wine and sherry menu.

Another fresher and more contemporary restaurant is  Sopranis, proud owner of Bib Gourmand (tasting menus €50). 

In case you're at all passionate about Iberico, the king of all pigs, you should definitely not miss Meson Cumbres Mayores. Arrive early or better yet, make a reservation. Without one you might still luck out at the bar with a separate tapas menu. 

Not the cheapest choice (though menus start reasonably at €30), but Dios Mios, is it good!

Same street also houses several restaurants specialized in fish and seafood. One good choice is Cerveceria la Gaditana (in business for more than a century!), located just across the street. Their seafood platter (€18) is guaranteed to make any day a good one. 

Oh, and another must for a seafood lover is of course Cádiz central market, where I took you on a tour alread earlier. Pick up goodies for an impromptu al fresco feast or go crazy with the food court where there's something for everyone. 

Another equally good choice is to collect your favourites from the fish market (like those massive prawns, size of my elbow...!) and take the lot to one of the restaurants around the market, where, for a small fee, they'll cook your catch of the day to your liking. 

One of these is  Taberna La Bombilla, where I found myself venturing several times. 

The place managed to surprise me too: I actually discovered seafood I failed to fall in love with. Ortiguilla is a Southern Andalusian specialty: crunchy exterior that hides a snot-like, slimey creature. I can't believe I had to live to see this day: there's  food that isn't salvaged even by deep-frying. Oh, my.

For brutally honest reactions after the first bite, check out blog's Twitter feed...

Another Cádiz delicacy is camarones, tiny, tiny shrimps that are used for making of tortillitas de camarones. They are sold on the streets in snack-sized cones. Sometimes still alive.

The area around market is also full of cafes that, especially during the weekends, area heaing with families gathering foe a churro breakfast. 

Churros are picked up from the churro stalls in the square next to the market, which are then taken to the cafes and devoured over wonderfully rich hot chocolate. Oh. Ah. Make sure to turn up early or you'll have to go without...

Located on the Palaze Ayuntamiento square close to the railway and bus stations there's a delightful jamóneria/ deli El Chicuco, whose Iberico selection and I quickly became best of friends.

A great place to stock up on local goodies. In the evening they also open a small tapas bar next door.

 La Vaca Atada, located across the square on Calle Nueva, became another favourite of mine. They're famous for their Argentinian empanadas, but you should also save some room in your stomach for their pastries, where they haven't scrimped on dulce de leche, caramel made with condensed milk.

And seeing how Andalusians love deep-frying, keep an eye out on for freidurias, specialized in deep-fried fish and seafood. A good one is located on the flower market of Plaza de Las Flores on the square after the market.

Jerez de la Frontera:

While sampling the selection at the local sherry bodegas is a great way to spend a day, you should also make some time for solid food, too and for that there's no shortage in Jerez, either.

El Bichero is famous for their fresh fish and seafood. And extensive sherry list. Which, let's face it, is pretty much all a person needs...!

Located close to Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Arts (yep, home to those dancing horses) you'll find Israel Ramos' Restaurante Albalá, where stylish decor meets fresh and contemporary twist on the local gastronomy. Great wine list.

If you love your wines (and who doesn't?), another great recommendation is La Carboná. Tastefully built into an old sherry bodega it's also been awarded Bib Gourmand. Tasting menu specifially designed to be paired with sherry costs €32.

For tapas bar hopping, try  El Bigote or El Almacen.

El Puerto de Santa María:

In case your budget doesn't quite stretch to Michelin-starred (2 to be precise) Aponiente (tasting menus excluding wines start at €165), the owners of Cádiz's El Faro also have another restaurant here. El Faro de El Puerto is a great choice and offers incredible value for money, along with an interesting and extensive yet affordable wine list.

9-course tasting menu (with wines!) €58. For a full report on my lunch here, just see here.

Sanlúcar de Barrameda:

Casa Balbino's extensive and cheap menu makes it a great place for some serious tapas overdose. 

Another ones worth a visit are  Bar Barbiana and Mirador Doñana.

So, how about that? Anybody else feeling a little peckish right about now?

That's it for Sherrycountry- next culinary crusade takes us slightly closer to home as I'll take you on a tour of Porvoo, one of my favourite placs in Finland and an unbelievable foodie oasis!

* The trip was organized in collaboration with Cadiz Tourism *

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El Faro de El Puerto - a restaurant find in El Puerto de Santa María

El Faro de El Puerto, recommended by the Michelin guide is a true find and offers incredible value for money.

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I happened to be exploring El Puerto de Santa María on my birthday, which these days is much like another Yom Kippur - a day for reflection and review of yet another year gone by. Like with Will Ferrell flms, the reviews just keep getting worse.

- I'm another year older (and yes, none the wiser...)
- And also a couple of pounds heavier (yet not as far as my bank account is concerned...)
- Yet my career has not progressed one inch
- I still haven't managed to find a sport that would take me into their Olympic team
- The number of my Nobel nominations is still a rather depressing zero
- I'm still not married to George Clooney

I'm starting to think I might have to start getting used to the fact that some of those life goals will never come true. Especially the last one. 

So, I decided to start the process over a lunch at El Faro de El Puerto. 

El Faro-group has another very decent restaurant in Cádiz, too, but this offers a fresher, more modern take on things. The location, though, is not very convenient and walk from the city centre takes easily 30 minutes. 

So, I arrived not only depressingly George Clooney-free, but also drenched in sweat with one of my sandals strapped to my foot with a hair band as it had melted in the scorching sun. 

A taxi is not a bad choice, then. 

The restaurant consists of the main dining room and La Barra, which serves a selection of smaller dishes. 

Named after lighthouse, the walls are decorated with paintings of famous lighthouses from around the world.

The restaurant has accumulated fame with its extensive and interesting wine list. 

Prices, though, are very reasonable - as tends to be the case in Spain. 

I settled for a 9-course tasting menu (those pounds don't pile on themselves - it takes some work, too!) which, with wines included, was €58.

Did I already mention the wines were included? And that it meant two bottles - one white and another red?

White happened to come from a local producer Osborne, in whose cellars I'd just spent rather a delightful morning.

Firts some oyster and seaweed. Afrodisiacs are always so much appreciated when the company you'll be spending rest of the days is no other than you yourself...

Then I was on to my daily dose of octopus - today it was ceviche. Excellent vinaigrette brough some edge to the dish.

(Oysters and octopus? Ooh, what a day.)

The fruity and acidic cod  was a tad too similar to the previous dish, but a lovely, fresh dish in any case. 

Next course combined two Andalusian classics: deep-fried aubergines berenjenas fritas and Córdoba's take on gazpacho, salmorejo.

For blog's recipe of this cold and refreshing soup, just click here.

First of the platos was smoked duck breast carpaccio with truffle oil. One of my favourites.

(Oysters and octopus and duck? This was a goooood day.)

Next stop was tuna with papaya, avocado puré and saffron-infused sitruc chutney.  Tuna was done just right.

(Oysters and octopus and duck and tuna? A really good day!)

The lamb, stuffed with vegetables looked so depressingly traditional I didn't expect much fro it, but it was in fact really good. Rather surprisingly though the true star of the dish was the couscous, which was hands down the best I've ever had. 

(Oysters and octopus and duck and tuna and lamb? More of these days, please!)

Then some chocholate...

... and off to the desert. Helado de queson translates as cheese ice cream, so you can imagine I wasn't exactly clapping my hands with excitement. Luckily, it was not made of, say, manchego and the cream cheese lent it a lovely tartness. 

(Want to hear a little secret? This is one of the recipes I've been working on for my up and coming book!)

And in case I was still hungry (I wasn't) there was coffee and some sweets to go with that, too. So, not only was everything good, there was plenty of it. Bang for buck? Hell, yes.

Ahh - quite simply the most enjoyable 165 minutes of my whole trip.

And with our stomachs full it's time to head over to the last corner of the Sherry country: Sanlúcar de Barrameda! Any of you familiar with it yet?

___________________


ANYONE FOR SECONDS?


      

SHARING IS CARING!

Caliente Carihuela

August is the time for holidays in Southern Europe. And Southern Spain in August is muy caliente. To a point that even locals take notes from the style usually favoured by the English tourists, who seem to believe clothing is optional. So even the Spaniards are walking around wearing nothing but fluorescent yellow Speedos. Sixpack or not - that's not a good look.

Even the artists behind all those sand sculptures by the paseos, beachside boulevards are dreaming of snow. Some of sand castles come with their own pool. Which in this weather is pretty much a necessity.

Exhausted by the heat we sought solace in Carihuela, in the restaurant you too know already. Relief came in this bottle, a Barbadillo white wine from Cadiz. Cadiz is, in addition to being the most important port in Spain, also the gate to the sherry country. This grape, Palomino, is the grape used for making that very drink.

The lunch itself consisted of wonderfully garlicky marinated peppers...

...and carpaccios. First up was cod, the texture of which was lovely: so meaty and chewy. The mushy tomatos gave the dish just the right amount of acidity.

Octopus carpaccio on the other hand could have used a bit more citrusy acidity. The pulpo itself was excellent and after a bit of industrial espionage with the assistance of our lovely waiter I can't wait to try this at home!

Fabe con almejas, clams with beans sounded like a strange combination at first, but worked. Without a doubt it had to do with the tomato sauce it came in, which had similar lovely, rich oceaniness to their zarzuela. The potatos though were pointless.

Food here is always good. And the restaurant is always full. This is the kitchen where Paco and the rest make the magic happen.